Should a novice do this?

[StevenUK]

Hang on a mo

The photo in this post appeared in an earlier post when "your builder" was doing the work.

Is this a DIY project or a proper repair job?

Yes, the builder started on Monday, and was totally useless, chipped a tile on the floor, tried to hide it, threw seals away that were needed, installed the wall battens in the wrong place, etc. etc. Slapdash, not what I need when installing a £1600 shower pod, in a £300K house.

So now I am doing it myself - well, as much as I can.

Also, when mentioning a 'proper repair job', I have had two builders round now, first one wanted to scam the insurance, and the second one as mentioned above.

It seems if you want anything done with care, you have to at least try and do as much as you can yourself these days.

 

[StevenUK]

Why not use plastic connected to the pod, bring it to the front of the pod and fit isolation valves/compression fittings there ?

I am not sure what you mean, Gigz. Connected to the pod? The main problem is, being able to fit any plumbing to the shower valve as well as still being able to manoeuvre the shower wall back onto the wall, and screw it in place, see here, for what I mean:

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• StevenUK
• 17 Apr 2014
• 1

I cannot see, that unless the pipe at the back of the shower valve is flexible, how to connect it to the back of the valve, then screw the shower pod to the wall.

The fitting instructions are here:

http://www.byretech.com/acatalog/Install_Quadrant_Shower_Pod_Coram.pdf

I just cannot get my head around the piping, and being able to screw the top panel (containing the valve) back onto the wall, without using a flexible plumbing tube.

For example, here is the base of the shower pod in my en suite (and you can also see where the builder fitted the battens in the wrong place):

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• StevenUK
• 17 Apr 2014
• 1

So the pipes, hot and cold are in the corner behind, let's say copper, or plastic. I cannot see how I would be able to connect the water supply to the shower valve from behind without using a flexible pipe, as afterwards I need to lift the top half in place to screw onto battens.

I must be missing something obvious?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

1/2" wall plate for shower valves, fixed behind pod, then the valve can be fitted from within the pod. You will have to measure, mark up and position accurately to perform this task.

 

[misterdubya]

PTFE tape on the olives gives a clean, easy, and very reliable seal.

If you say so - but your just a DIYer.

Old plumbers pretend their joints never leak and deny using it.

Bit of a sweeping statement that one - and untrue. Water hawk is much better.

 

[stardanny]

Would it be a possible to form a access panel around behind shower connector point on other side of wall seeing you got stud wall?

Just a idea

Daniel.

 

[StevenUK]

Would it be a possible to form a access panel around behind shower connector point on other side of wall seeing you got stud wall?

Just a idea

Daniel.

The other side of the wall is a bedroom. Pods are sold all the time, so there has to be a solution. I just cannot see it. I also spoke to the manufacturer before purchase, and all the talk was 'easy fit' and it never came up that pipe connection would be tricky.

Something obvious is being overlooked - has to be

 

[StevenUK]

1/2" wall plate for shower valves, fixed behind pod, then the valve can be fitted from within the pod. You will have to measure, mark up and position accurately to perform this task.

The valve plate on the shower is fixed in position, and pre-fitted,

Here is the back of the top section:

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• StevenUK
• 18 Apr 2014
• 1

Here is the front view:

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• StevenUK
• 18 Apr 2014
• 1

So, when the base is in place, and I am lifting the top piece into position, I somehow have to fit the pipes at the same time.

 

[mogget]

Look like they intend you to do it in push fit. The manual is a little vague.

Is it possible that you could measure and fit speedfit pipes to the elbows to the top part, these will have some flex in them. Then tilt the top part and slide the pipes behind the base whilst tilting the top part back to the wall. Then make pushfit connections underneath, putting iso valves in an accessible place.

This is just a possible solution for you to consider. I think having looked at the manual I think I will stick to traditional shower base, tiling and enclosure!

Personally I don't think your pod looks easy to fit at all...

 

[mogget]

Looking more closely at the manual, they clearly expect you to make the connections at the bottom after the whole thing is slid into place.

 

[Newboy]

Manufacturer's instructions cover pipe connection in sections 4 & 5

Also state that they supply 2 no. speedfit barrier pipes for the purpose

 

[StevenUK]

Manufacturer's instructions cover pipe connection in sections 4 & 5

Also state that they supply 2 no. speedfit barrier pipes for the purpose

Yes, they have supplied the speedfit pipes, and all connections, but even with some flex, it is a very tight fit, when having to balance the top section and fit the pipes at the same time, in almost a single action.

Even if the pipes were easy to fit, are those type of pipe and connections the best? Considering the shower could be in place for the next 20 years? That is why I was thinking there could be more permanent solutions.

Or are these speedfit connections secure, and long lasting?

 

[Newboy]

The instructions say to move the base out from the wall, lower the top section into place and then connect the flexis.

 

[Newboy]

For what it's worth I'd avoid having concealed flexis/pushfit but, short of cutting access panels into the unit or into the adjacent room stud walls there's very little alternative for the chosen unit.

 

[longdogs]

Interesting thread this. It shows how difficult it can sometimes be to install items that look great but have no regard for practicalities. I often wonder if the designers actually ever install their products. If they do, it's probably in a purpose built environment.

If those push-fit connections behind the shower ever fail, then the whole lot would have to come out. Personally, I would be happier with an access panel in the corner of the bedroom next door, at least you can replace them without having to take the whole lot out.

 

[StevenUK]

The instructions say to move the base out from the wall, lower the top section into place and then connect the flexis.

Yes, but to do that, and fit your arms around the central column (where the valve plate is), as well as being able to fit the connectors, you need about 2 foot width (just tested it), and I doubt the flexi pipes will stretch away from their fitted floor position that much without potential damage to the pipes/connectors.