Should a novice do this?

With respect, I'm only highlighting what the instructions say. If you're not happy with that then I suggest you contact the manufacturer and point out the difficulties you're having. By the way welcome to the world of fitting badly designed products - trust me there are lots of them out there!

It may be easier to fit the connectors to the back of the shower plate first and then to connect them to your supply pipework.
 
Sponsored Links
With respect, I'm only highlighting what the instructions say. If you're not happy with that then I suggest you contact the manufacturer and point out the difficulties you're having. By the way welcome to the world of fitting badly designed products - trust me there are lots of them out there!

It may be easier to fit the connectors to the back of the shower plate first and then to connect them to your supply pipework.

Newboy, I appreciate the input, that is why I asked the question. I did contact the manufacturer this afternoon.

I did think about that, fitting to the plate first, then connecting to the supply pipe second, but there is no way anybody could reach the supply pipe connection area from, say, underneath the base, etc.

It's definitely a strange one. I have been looking at manufacturers of other shower pods this afternoon, to try and assess how they solve the issue with their models (as the issue would persist with their models, too), but nothing in their instructions, either.

This was the whole reason why I was considering flexible compression pipes, the metal type that bend, like the shower hose itself.
 
It's probably worth noting that in the MIs, the supply pipes are shown as vertical/ascending from floor level - you last posted photo shows your supply pipework as horizontal at floor level.

Maybe worth putting a couple of end-feed elbows onto your existing pipework and giving yourself a chance!

Out of interest, on the supplied flexis, I assume that they are female 15mm sockets both ends. The photo you posted earlier showing the back of the upper portion of the pod seems to show two pushfit elbows already in place. If so, putting a longer piece of 15mm copper into the elbows will give you the chance to have a bit more room to manoeuvre.

There are extra long flexis available (I don't recommend their use in this situation though)

http://www.screwfix.com/p/push-fit-straight-pipe-900-x-13-x-15mm/55928
 
Sponsored Links
It's probably worth noting that in the MIs, the supply pipes are shown as vertical/ascending from floor level - you last posted photo shows your supply pipework as horizontal at floor level.

Maybe worth putting a couple of end-feed elbows onto your existing pipework and giving yourself a chance!

Out of interest, on the supplied flexis, I assume that they are female 15mm sockets both ends. The photo you posted earlier showing the back of the upper portion of the pod seems to show two pushfit elbows already in place. If so, putting a longer piece of 15mm copper into the elbows will give you the chance to have a bit more room to manoeuvre.

There are extra long flexis available (I don't recommend their use in this situation though)

http://www.screwfix.com/p/push-fit-straight-pipe-900-x-13-x-15mm/55928[/QUOTE]

Yes, I had planned on having elbows fitted upwards on the supply pipes. They were on my list of items to purchase before I realised I would probably have to get a plumber in to do it for me.

Yes, female both ends, the builder we got rid off last week fitted them to the back of the valve, the other two are fitted to the flexi-pipe ready and waiting (the flexi pipe is about 2.5 metres in length supplied).

When I contacted the manufacturer earlier by email, Coram, I sent a link to this thread in the email, so they will read about this issue from here too, without dismissing this as just coming from a novice punter.

It'll be interesting to hear what their suggested solution to this is.

Just out of interest, Newboy, why don't you recommended the use of metal flexipipes, are they not reliable enough? More prone to leaking, splitting under permanent water pressure?
 
Just personal preference - it's worth noting that they are not metal flexible connections. They are a plastic tube encased in a mesh outer covering.

I don't like the idea of hidden couplings which may leak without you being able to either see them or do anything about them once in place.

Given that you say you have 2.5m flexis supplied I really don't understand the difficulty in following the MIs once you have your supply pipework in the correct location.
 
I supposed the following is also plastic encased in metal housing:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexible-copper-plumbing-stick-15-x-15-x-300mm/61598

There is obvious difficulty in manouvering, and balancing the top panel, as well as connecting the pipe connectors at an angle, as well as making sure they are secure and leak free, don't you think? Maybe it is because I am not a plumber, and just a practical thinker.

I'll see what they say.

The other issue, is that from what I have read on here, and other portals these push connectors are maybe not as long term as we would want them to be, especially considering lack of access, compared to say time tested copper pipes and connectors.

The obvious concern is leaks on a unit that would take time to rectify should the worse happen. I would probably find myself turning off the shut off valves every time we went away for a weekend. I think it's the plastic 'thing' being under permanent pressure.
 
No, that's copper with thin sections to allow it to be bent without deforming (too much)

I still think that you are making life difficult for yourself.

1) Get the supply pipework into the position shown in the MIs - in the corner ascending from the floor.

2) Check the connections on the back of the shower bar are good.

3) Connect the supplied flexis to the shower bar.

4) Pull the base unit out from one side of the wall as shown in section 4 of the MIs.

5) Lift the top section into place on the base (two of you!) - section 5

6) Connect the flexis.

7) Turn on the water and check for leaks.

8 ) Slide the entire unit back into position.
 
Just an update on this.

In the end I hired a plumber who charged me £300 to fit the shower pod, it took him 9 hours (not sure why to be fair, and sure I paid over the odds, but couldn't get any plumbers interested, or who could be bothered to do it) and with regard to the connection piping, what he did was use JG speed fit pipe (the type on a roll) thread it underneath the shower base so that he could easily connect it all after the top of the pod was connected to the wall.

Flexi on the back of the pod, and flexi on the pipes, then just made sure they could be connected near the front of the base within easy reach.

Just hoping JG speed fit lives up to their reputation.

All good so far though.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top