sizing rads and pipes for central heating

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Hi,

we've just bought a 'standard' three bed semi...

fully double-glazed (not sure when it was installed),
cavity walls insulated (again, not sure when),
about 200mm glass-fibre in the roof done about four years ago (certificates stapled to beams).

There's a 'standard' gas fire in each of the two main rooms downstairs, no immersion heater but a combi boiler in the kitchen.

While I've been working there I've had the two fires running on a low setting and with the internal doors open they heat the whole house within an hour, so I reckon the insulation is pretty good all round.


Doing a full re-wire before we move into a house...

There's no central heating so while I have the floor-boards up I thought I could drop some pipes in ready to install CH later in the summer.

My plan is to install eight rads under the windows and an emersion heater (remove the combi and replace with a CH boiler), do the rads, pipes / water plumbing myself and then pay a gas fitter to install the boiler and commision the system.

So I wanted to know the pipe sizes for the main 'run', front to back...

then I can cut the floor-boards to allow one section to be lifted at each end so I can finish off the installation without having to lift the carpets and the whole length of floor-boards.

I found a tutorial on the internet and there's a set of calcs to decide on radiator sizes for each room. This will tell me if 22mm is OK front to back of the house (I guess it will be but I want to check).

I added the calcs into an Excel spreadsheet but some of the BTU / Watts figures output seem a bit low to me, taking one room as an example:

back bedroom (the mid-sized of the three):

for the room Volume, length: 2.86m
width: 3.38m
height: 2.37m
air change per hour: 1
'U' value: 0.33
Multiplied out, sub-total = 7.56


Window size: 1.78m x 1.04m
double glazed, 'U' value 2.9
Multiplied out, sub-total = 5.37


external wall, width: 2.37m
height: 2.37m
'U' value: 0.6 (they suggested 0.3 for 'heavily insulated', I've allowed a bit extra)
Multiplied out, sub-total = 4.82


ceiling length: 2.86m
width: 3.38.
'U' value: 0.6 (they suggest 0.3, and there's around 200mm of insulation above)
Multiplied out, sub-total = 5.8


floor length: 2.8m
width: 3.38.
'U' value: 0.7 (they suggest 1 but it's a carpeted wood floor with heating in the room below)
Multiplied out, sub-total = 6.77


Total 30.32

multiplied by 20 (19 degrees room temp and -1 outside)

= 606.33 Watts

multiplied by 3.45 = 2092 BTU


Does that sound OK to the experts on here please?

As a check I found an on-line calculator that didn't consider window size, ceiling or floor areas. and that gave a rating of 3600 BTU (that seems too high to me!) for the same room, so I'm not so sure now!

These calcs I used give a total for the rads (excluding immersion heater) of 20224 BTU or 5862 watts.

Again that seems a bit low, what do you think please?

What sort of BTU / watts would an immesrion heater come out at please?

I guess I'll be using a fairly 'standard' 28k BTU non-condensing boiler, if I slightly over-specc'd the rads then I could limit the flow through each and I'd have some in reserve for extra cold days, but again does this sound reasonable or have I got it all completely wrong?

Regards
Peter
 
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Not quite clear. I assume you have a water heater if you don't have a copper hot water tank. I don't think you already have a combi as this could be configured to do the central heating already.

Simple solution is combi boiler. Around the 30kw is plenty for hot water delivery.

22mm pipes for the main runs branching off for radiators into 15mm.
You can also drive 2 radiators on 15mm if it makes the piping easier.

Wikes do a nice a nice radiator calculator just fit that to the rooms job done.
Wickes calculates says about 1kW for your room.
But oversize as much as you like to get the rooms warm fast. Thermostatic valves will control the radiator.
 
Hi,

thanks for the replies, sorry for any confusion I may be using the wrong terms (I'm a network engineer!).

There's a water heater in the kitchen that I want to have changed to an old-fashioned central heating boiler, not a combi or a condensing type.

Then I'll have eight rads plus a new immersion heater.

Is the Wickes radiator calculator a free handout diy guide or a physical device please?

Regards
Peter
 
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Hi Charnwood,

thanks for the link. I tried that one previously and it's due to getting a much higher value there that I asked the questions on here.

I managed to get to Wickes today and found the CH tutorial with the calculator as suggested by dcawkwell...

so I'll add that into my spreadsheet to see what difference it makes.


Can anyone tell me what sort of watts / BTU to allow for an immersion heater tank?

I was thinking of 28mm pipe from the boiler to the immersion heater cab with a controlled hot water / CH valve there and then 22mm into the water tank and onwards to the rads.

Does that sound OK please?

Regards
Peter
 
2Kw is normally allowed for the tank,as for the pipe work I would say the boiler manufactures instructions are best consulted for that.
 
Hi,

thanks for the replies, sorry for any confusion I may be using the wrong terms (I'm a network engineer!).

There's a water heater in the kitchen that I want to have changed to an old-fashioned central heating boiler, not a combi or a condensing type.

Then I'll have eight rads plus a new immersion heater.

Is the Wickes radiator calculator a free handout diy guide or a physical device please?

Regards
Peter

No just a sheet of paper you can download the pdf online. Do a search online for wickes radiator sizing.
Buy a combi you can still use it to heat a hot water tank if you want. The combi boiler is actually cheaper to buy due to mass production but is virtually identical inside to the system boiler. But the installation of a combi will be much cheaper. If your plumber doesn't know how to do that get a combi to heat a hot water tank get someone else.
 
You could always cough up 40-odd quid for a couple of bits of plastic and a rivet. :LOL:
 
Hi,

Armo74 & dcawkwell: thanks for the info.

Charnwood: 'You could always cough up 40-odd quid for a couple of bits of plastic and a rivet'

sorry I don't understand. Is that a method of using a combi boiler to heat the hot water tank or a joke for the other guys?


I guess either the combi CH output would be used to heat the CH and the tank...

or the CH output goes to the rads and the HW side heats the tank.

I also assume that the HW side is fired by a pressure switch when the tap is turned on but that could possibly be bypassed with an external switch or timer? In that case would the tank be heated by gravity feed, or could a second pump be added too?

Would that require four pipes from the boiler to the bathroom as it would mean two separate feeds? No hurry for that end of the pipework as I plan to put that in place late summer.

I hadn't looked at a combi (I'm only familiar with my old Stelrad that I've used for 20-odd years) so I'll do a bit more research on them.

Regards
Peter
 
Hi,

Armo74 & dcawkwell: thanks for the info.

Charnwood: 'You could always cough up 40-odd quid for a couple of bits of plastic and a rivet'

sorry I don't understand. Is that a method of using a combi boiler to heat the hot water tank or a joke for the other guys?


I guess either the combi CH output would be used to heat the CH and the tank...

or the CH output goes to the rads and the HW side heats the tank.

I also assume that the HW side is fired by a pressure switch when the tap is turned on but that could possibly be bypassed with an external switch or timer? In that case would the tank be heated by gravity feed, or could a second pump be added too?

Would that require four pipes from the boiler to the bathroom as it would mean two separate feeds? No hurry for that end of the pipework as I plan to put that in place late summer.

I hadn't looked at a combi (I'm only familiar with my old Stelrad that I've used for 20-odd years) so I'll do a bit more research on them.

Regards
Peter

Yes you can use a combi to heat a conventional tank.
So install the boiler and away you go hot water and central heating.
You can install the cylinder later if you want. You may be so happy with the combi that you won't bother. You use the central heating flow and return to heat the hot want just the same as a system boiler.
Or you can go for something like a glow worm ultra power an unvented cylinder and boiler all in a nice box. Works as a combi or hot water tank.
 
sorry I don't understand.
In the good old days we used a calculator made by a company called M H Mear, a Mear's Calculator (http://www.bes.co.uk/products/005.asp). It is an extremely over-priced bit of kit for what it is:

1711c659450x450-jpg.jpg
 
Hi dcawkwell,

'You can install the cylinder later if you want. You may be so happy with the combi that you won't bother.'

I like to have a bit of water stored in the house in case 'the mains' gets shut off.

The way things are going in this country it can't be long before we start seeing interruptions in gas and electricity...

and you never know, water might get rationed too!


Charnwood: I understand now, thanks. I had a calculator like that years ago for working out gearing and wheel sizes on a motorcycle.

Regards
Peter
 

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