sizing UPVC for fascias and soffits

[lymmranger]

Our house is a 1930`s semi detached.
The roof currently has exposed (painted) rafters with the guttering brackets fixed straight to the ends of the rafters.
The guttering is badly in need of attention (I suspect the Gypsy was extremely drunk that day!) - leaking joints and set like a roller coaster.

We are considering fitting UPVC fascias and soffits, before renewing/repairing the gutters, but even if I do it myself the costings on my initial (rough and ready) shopping list is alarming (I have no spare kidneys to sell)

So I need to look at economising, therefore my questions are as follows...

1/ Fascias - height of fascia will be between 100mm and 120mm, rafters are at 300mm centres - Do I really need 16/18mm profile or will the lighter 10mm profile suffice?
2/ Is there a way of refurbishing the (Black) colouration of guttering, to enable me to reuse some of the gutters/downpipes - I will be renewing most of the joints due to leaks and these will stick out like a sore thumb
3/ I am advised by the supplier who induced heart failure with his quote that one nail per rafter is sufficient - do the experts agree?
4/ Would I be better buying online?

Thankyou in advance for your input

 

[Regencyroofingipswich]

1. fascia can only be purchased in 150mm at the smallest size, yes you do need 16mm replacement fascia if you are removing the old fascias otherwise the weight of the tiles on the thinner stuff will be too much and it will start to bow.

2. Ive used a bit of boot polish to clean up old fittings before but i wouldnt recommend it on the whole gutter as i cant imagine it lasts too long, it does work though.
I would recommend replacement as guttering is cheap to buy and its worth doing a proper job

3. One nail per rafter is in no way sufficent , you need two per rafter spaced a couple of inches apart if possible above and below.Make sure you join your fascia on the rafter ends by cutting halfway onto the rafter and butting the next piece up to it allowing a few cm to fit in a joiner.


4.You could buy online but i reckon you are better off buying locally in case you run out of a couple of bits and have to make a dash out !
Have you got a 'mr plastic' near you , they are usually reasonable.

 

[lymmranger]

Errr ...as I said above currently the house does not have fascias or soffits!

.......I was only considering fitting (or rather adding) them to save having to go up and paint the exposed bit (I am getting too old to doing that much longer and I hate ladders)

weight of tiles will not be an issue because there is tongue and groove above rafters fitted to kick up and support bottom rows of tiles

..all woodwork is in excellent condition. So the reason I asked about using a thinner profile is that it would be purely decorative (and remove the necessity to go up and paint every 2 years!)

thanks for all the info

 

[cliche]

the only problem i coud see(well think off) is that the soffit may not be able to meet the brick work neat.
if it has bare rafters with a gutter fixing attatched to it i would remove this gutter fixing.Secure soffit. fix new fascia( i use screws with a poly top) one per rafter is enough but if not double them up one above each other with a 2 ich gap.
With gutter it is cheaper to replace the with black plastic(very cheap)
and place a clip every .9 of a metre away from each other.

fascia come in 100mm, 150mm etc but remember this measurement it outside edge to edge so allow for the leg


hope this is of help


g

 

[Mw Roofline]

Errr ...as I said above currently the house does not have fascias or soffits!

On these types of applications the rafter ends are not cut perfectly square as it was not meant for a fascia and soffit application. You will have to stringline and level each rafter otherwise your new fascia will be wavy.

weight of tiles will not be an issue because there is tongue and groove above rafters fitted to kick up and support bottom rows of tiles

Correct, you can use the thinner board providing you have done the above. Use two pins on each rafter. However you will only be governed to screw the gutter brackets where there is a rafter underneath. You can't screw into just the floating 9mm board alone. if you want to space the new brackets so they won't be hitting a rafter then use the thicker board. If you choose to use the thin board and gutter brackets onto a rafter behind then bite the heads off the pins before you nail them so the new gutter bracket will seat nice and flat onto the fascia board.


I would just use a fascia and leave the soffit. these types of houses with just exposed rafters can look chunky with both fascia and soffit installed because the upstairs windows are set quite high up near the eaves.

 

[lymmranger]

We have had a rethink on this, mainly because we will have major problems connecting to the neighbours guttering (fitting a fascia will throw it out of line) and partly because we run the risk of ruining the character of the property.
...the final factor was the cost

we are now replacing and repairing the guttering

....my missus informs me that as doing this wont take as long I may as well repoint the front of the house whilst I have the scaffolding tower

 

[Nige F]

1930`s gutter- presumably cast iron ? . are you taking it all down and replacing the knackered bits with ali of the same profile . Should last for years - Don`t blame the guttring gypsy - blame the ***** painter who started painting the rafter feet instead of leaving them in wood preserver

 

[lymmranger]

No - not cast iron - twas/is plastic

...job now completed as follows....

all guttering dismantled and cleaned, damaged seals replaced and any damaged joints replaced. Extra downpipes added as required.
....rained last night - no leaks

whilst up there

-eaves and rafters repainted
- new outside lighting fitted
- house front re - pointed (well down to step ladder height)

I am now back at work for a well deserved rest