Terminating SWA in knockout box outside a plastic CU

Joined
3 Feb 2012
Messages
175
Reaction score
5
Location
Hertfordshire
Country
United Kingdom
I've just noticed that my plastic Eaton MEM CU has no solid surface to fasten a gland to (apart from on the cover ;)). It's all knockout sections to allow cables in/out. I think I'm going to have to terminate my SWA in a box outside the CU itself. :(

So, something like this? http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BX3315.html

Then run 20mm conduit into one of the CU knockouts? Seems a bit weird. Is the the best way, or does anyone have other recommendations? Starting to wish I'd bought a metal CU... :(

Also, as an aside, is there any reason to go for 3 core rather than 2core? This is just for supplying two outdoor sockets:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/nexus-13a-2g-rcd-switched-socket/91095#

Cheers
 
Sponsored Links
Sponsored Links
As BAS has commented on above, fix the adaptable box up against CU casing.
Then you can knockout and terminate glands and armour at adaptable box, leave enough cable to route straight through to CU terminals without any joints at adaptable box. Then pigtail an earth connection across the box to earth busbar within CU.

Recommend going for 3 core to supply a CPC
 
Why not just butt the box up against the CU?

Could do, I suppose. Cheers.

Not being reliant on the integrity of the gland/armour connections for your cpc.

Fair point.

...
No.

Yes: http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-masterseal-plus-13a-2-gang-switched-rcd-socket-active/26746[/QUOTE]

Hmm. It'll mostly be used for lighting. Or is active actually required by regulation?

Cheers for the reply.
 
Regardless of the type of RCD, do not fit Nexus

I installed a Nexus and an MK next to each other to see the difference for myself, and the MK beats the Nexus hands down, on every category you can think of.

The seal around the lid when it's closed is phenomenal.

Will be binning the Nexus when I get around to buying another MK (perhaps when I win the lottery)
 
I use a conduit through box, and fit a nipple into the top of it. This gives proper containment of the wiring right into the CU.

There is also a handy screw hole in the conuit box to attatch your CPC to.
 
can't you just cut a 20 or 25mm hole in the bottom of the CU?

(or am I being dumb???)
 
Wouldn't it be cheaper (particularly if you were going to get a decent brand of outdoor sockets) to have an RCBO in the CU than to fork out for two RCD-protected sockets?

Hi. The CU is in the cellar, so the plan was to put the RCD out where you can reset it quicker if it does trip.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top