The switchplate wont turn on?

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Hmmm the plot thickens.

Assuming your theory is right then how do I go about fixing it?

And to passerv in that case I do have an earth wire in the rear box - it is connected to something in the bottom right corner.
 
flatten the surrounding wall where the plate rests / move the mounting box further out
 
That would seem to make sense as when I took out my old switch it had extra long screw into the rear box (I have had to use these again as the screw supllied with this one were far too short) and the screw hole on the left hand side is a bit wobbly meaning i can pretty much pull the screw out once I have enough of the thread to grip on.

Could I use the screw holes at the top and bottom of the box instead i.e. screw the frame in on it's side???
 
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Assuming your theory is right then how do I go about fixing it?

The work involved in fixing that kind of electronic gizmo is rarely worth the effort. I bet you don't even have a circuit diagram for it! What breezer is saying is test it. You do this by breaking into the mains lead of an old table lamp. Connect the two cut ends of the live wire into the switch, both earth wires into the switch's earth terminal and the two neutrals into a piece of choc block. Put the switch together and rest it face up on a safe (ie insulating) surface and plug in. Does it work now?

If it works then your problem is something to do with the way you're fixing it to the wall. Perhaps the three contacts do not connect properly or, as passerv suggested way back, your earth is faulty.

If it doesn't work it's a bin job. Was there a money back guarantee? :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

Edit: Breezer just pipped me to the post! From what you've just written, failure to connect is a distinct possibility.
 
Ok i am no electrician (I bet you couldn't tell) so I don't just have a choc block lying around but I will try moving the box out a bit tomorrow and if that doesnt work then thats it.
 
Ok it didn't work so I just want to thank you guys for all your help.

I have one final question before I leave you in peace - do all touch dimmers work by the same principle of the copper contacts?

If not then do you know of a good site or particular brand that is likely to give me a more trouble free experience or should I just go for a more conventianal dimmer.
 
The copper contacts have nothing to do with either the dimming or the touch detection. They're only there to simplify manufacture and, possibly, repair. You could replace the front plate without taking the switch out of the wall - if you could get a spare that it! :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

Call me old fashioned but I can't be bothered with touch controls. They're far too much trouble. I have to use a laptop with a touch pad instead of a mouse and it drives me up the wall, always picking up false clicks. :mad: :mad: :mad: I don't care what they have on the second generation Starship Enterprise. Give me switches and knobs every time. :) :) :)
 
If a new switch, could it possibly have a peel off strip on the faceplate that needs removing to expose the contact? As it works when you remove the faceplate and touch the contact within, it suggests that the contact hasn't continuity with the outside touchplate.
 
tim west said:
it suggests that the contact hasn't continuity with the outside touchplate.

Two of them must be connecting to light that LED. Even so, it's a theory and it's easy enough to check. Even if there's no peely stuff in there, the third contact might be grottium plated. I can't believe we've come all this way and none of us thought about cleaning the contacts! :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
I actually took off the plastic backing earlier and gave that a try - as you guys said two are wired to the LED and the 3rd (middle one) to the top left and I doubt I could get a picture close enough for you to spot anything:

Image09-1.jpg
 
Do you have a com stick/glass fibre pen? to clean the back of the contact?
 

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