Thermocouples ??

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As a generalisation, can you please help?
Wherever I look, everyone ( well almost everyone) seems to say that if a pilot light won't stay light, the most probably cause is the thermocouple....

My daughter has an over expensive Gas "stove" with that problem...

Are thermocouples designed specifically to the appliance?

OR are there one or more generic thermocouples that are suitable to a particular gas valve or unit?

I get the very distinct feeling that expensive "gas stoves" could attract premium prices for "standard" thermocouples.

Am I right or just cynical??
 
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Many gas fires and stoves use a generic thermocouple but I have noticed that more and more fires use Oxypilot assemblies with the thermocouple as part of it.. This means that the pilot capilliary must be disconnected in which case you should leave well alone but if the thermocouple can be removed separately then I can see no problem...It all depends on what your manufacturer has used
 
The thermocouples used in cookers are not the same as those used in boilers therefore she will have to get the correct one for her "Stove" (If that is the make then expect to pay through the nose.) She will also need an RGI to fit it as it classed as a "safety item"

BTW, although "multi-fit" thermocouples are available for boilers/fires, etc. it is, in fact, illegal to fit them unless the manufacturer agrees that they can be fitted.
 
Westfire your right, mate of mine has a baumatic range and he tried to order t/couple direct from them , they refused to send it without corgi number so i ordered it for him without looking at it cost £30 when it came it was same bog standard t/couple with threaded end that costs £3 from bes ltd.
 
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Oops, I took the word "Stove" as a cast iron heating device rather than a cooker.. :oops:
 
Most open flued "stove gas fires" incorperate a T.T.B (I am sure someone will come back with the full translation of the abreviation T.T.B)
It is a flue switch, it will cut the gas supply of to the gas valve/pilot if the flue temp gets to hot,the switch assumes a flue blockage,if tripped some are resetable,if tripped you need to know why.corgi........
 
Baxmax,
I am a little puzzled with your reply, perhaps I am missing something.


I would call it a flued sealed unit (has glass door on front)

From cold, the pilot light won't light.!!!

Unfortunately I cannot refer you to a picture or description of this stove as it is no longer in production.
 
In your first post you say the pilot "wont stay lit" in your last post you say the pilot "will not light" there is quite a difference.

I think i will have that bacon butty now :confused:
 
Sorry misread your reply.


Almost certain to be open flue.

the flue goes straight into the chimney, (which I can only assume to be lined correctly).

How can the type of flue affect the pilot light operation. As far as we can ascertain the stove has been installed approx 7 years, and must surely have worked correctly most of that time
 
CLARIFICATION.

Sorry that this post is going on so long..

The problem.

When we try to light the pilot by holding in the knob and clicking the igniter, the pilot light WILL light AND the flame appears to be of a reasonable size, and also appears to be directed correctly over the thermocouple, however after the suggested 10 seconds we release the knob and the pilot light goes out straight away.
If the same procedure is repeated and the knob is held in for ONE MINUTE, then sometimes the pilot will stay on and sometimes it doesn't

The stove is a " Austroflamm Esprit Gas Stove"
 

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