Toothing in to existing building
- Thread starter hogey
- Start date
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Hi Stuart,
I have put a board across the top of the door frame so you can see, apols for the photos my phone doesnt have a flash and the torch was crap.
So you can see how the courses lie.
I seems like it might be about an inch and a half out.
I have put a board across the top of the door frame so you can see, apols for the photos my phone doesnt have a flash and the torch was crap.
So you can see how the courses lie.
I seems like it might be about an inch and a half out.
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hi Stuart,
on the left hand side its about .5 inches low of the second course and on the right hand side it appears to be about 1.5 inches. So the right hand side looks to be a little lower than the left hand side.
When i put the level on top of the board the bubble is right in the middle so its defo level.
How do i fix it to put a lintel on?
thanks
on the left hand side its about .5 inches low of the second course and on the right hand side it appears to be about 1.5 inches. So the right hand side looks to be a little lower than the left hand side.
When i put the level on top of the board the bubble is right in the middle so its defo level.
How do i fix it to put a lintel on?
thanks
To get it looking a bit better, one method would be to use a soldier course cropped to bring the brickwork level with the top of frame. When the brickwork is high enough set up the line at top of frame and work along cutting the soldiers so they are laid to the line and level with the top of frame. It won't look perfect but is probably a better option to splitting a brick course. You will need to lay another cut soldier course over the top.
It really depends on what will look the best, and soldiers cut don't look so out of place as a split course.
Oldun may have another trick up his sleeve, although it might require a hawk and wooden float.
It really depends on what will look the best, and soldiers cut don't look so out of place as a split course.
Oldun may have another trick up his sleeve, although it might require a hawk and wooden float.
Hogey, Sorry only just seen your post. Have read the whole post through again half dozen times, and afraid that the brickwork is at a height now that there is no way of making it look right.
Stuart has given you the only possible way of making it look somewhere near right, but even a good bricklayer would have a job doing this to make it look even half presentable, as you need to bump up on the left hand side to get a soldier course in to bond height, and this will mean that you will loose course height on the courses below. It is easy to say in hind sight, but this should have been sorted out before first brick laid.
Hogey, if it was mine, I would tooth in as best as possible each side and get each side up level to top of frame, even if it means a course of headers to bring it up to frame level, fit lintel, finish to height required and then render the whole front.
Render can be left floated finish and painted or ashular effect. You can even render false quoin blocks to each corner. Render can be made to look very attractive.
Best I can offer.
oldun
Stuart has given you the only possible way of making it look somewhere near right, but even a good bricklayer would have a job doing this to make it look even half presentable, as you need to bump up on the left hand side to get a soldier course in to bond height, and this will mean that you will loose course height on the courses below. It is easy to say in hind sight, but this should have been sorted out before first brick laid.
Hogey, if it was mine, I would tooth in as best as possible each side and get each side up level to top of frame, even if it means a course of headers to bring it up to frame level, fit lintel, finish to height required and then render the whole front.
Render can be left floated finish and painted or ashular effect. You can even render false quoin blocks to each corner. Render can be made to look very attractive.
Best I can offer.
oldun
Hi all,
No worries so long as it doesn't look too bad can i put a pike (i think its called, the triangle bit) on the top once its all level. This is so that i can then replace the roof.
Is this now still possible?
thanks
No worries so long as it doesn't look too bad can i put a pike (i think its called, the triangle bit) on the top once its all level. This is so that i can then replace the roof.
Is this now still possible?
thanks
hi all,
I have finished the wall to where i think it should be before the last course and the lintel, the results are thus attached.
Please can someone advise how to move this forward i need to put a pike (the triangle bit on the end of this wall and then I will roof the building.
if it where you what would you check next
Thanks
hogey
I have finished the wall to where i think it should be before the last course and the lintel, the results are thus attached.
Please can someone advise how to move this forward i need to put a pike (the triangle bit on the end of this wall and then I will roof the building.
if it where you what would you check next
Thanks
hogey
Do you mean a Pediment? It looks like you will have to split a few bricks.
Hi Stuart,
I think i mean a gable (the generally triangular portion of a wall between the edges of a sloping roof) rather than a pike or a pediment,
If you think its best to split a few bricks then thats what I will do next as I am nearly there but how do I correct the height difference?
I think i mean a gable (the generally triangular portion of a wall between the edges of a sloping roof) rather than a pike or a pediment,
If you think its best to split a few bricks then thats what I will do next as I am nearly there but how do I correct the height difference?
The best way is to use an angle iron as a lintel. Split the bricks each side of the frame so they are level with the top of frame, and then build each side up to the frame. Then put a cut soldier course over the top of the frame.
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