I expect it is the thermostatic mechanism in the head that has failed. It is quite easy to swap the heads without having the take the valve off. What brand are they?
TRV valves, do they fail?
- Thread starter piper64
- Start date
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As I say, I've already swapped the head.
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Did you check (when the head was removed) that the pin would go down easily when pressed and then spring back up when released?
I forgot to add that sometimes the pin may move but, because it is not connected to the pin, the actual valve is still stuck down.
Try giving the side of the valve body some reasonably hefty thumps with a hammer - it may free the innards.
If you have a combi or a system boiler you should be able to change the TRV without draining down - provided the filling valves any any air valves are closed. If you have a vented boiler, get a Drayton Draineasy kit from the local DIY shed or plumbers merchant. It's a couple of rubber bungs which go in the feed and vet pipes in the F&E tank.
In both cases you get a vacuum in the system, so water cannot escape when you disconnect the valve. I fitted 13 TRVs at my last house by using bungs without any spillage. (Though it can be a bit scary seeing water lapping at the top of an open pipe sticking out of the floor!)
They are fitted in my house and some work better than others.. none stuck open or closed.. but some seem, err, lethargic!
Giving things a thump with a hammer is not the answer. Has anyone thoughtthat the rubber washer has perished andisnot sealingtheinside of the valve. If i had seen that problem for 12.50 for a complete new and 30 mins work I would of just got on and changed the valve. Job done
The fact that someone asked on the forum in the first place is because of a lack of knowledge regarding how these things work. Unlike yourself.
Given your input, that's a good possibility, so I will likely just replace it. Had to ask first though in case an easier fix was available.
sorry that did come accross abruptly as i wasnt following the thread. If the radiator wont come on with the trv in the fully open position the rubber has stuck and a gentle tap with a wooden batton will clear this, taking care not to wak the copper tube. If the radiators not turning off rubber has perished, probably due to chemicals used on flushing the system. My advice allways change slightly faulty parts as this will save calling out a plumber twice for the same job.
Thats OK.
I thought I'd have to change it, but draining the system is a pain and adding the anti corrosion chemicals adds £10 to the job every time I do it.
I'll change the two brand new ones the installer put on at the same time as they have the narrow bore inside and I'm sure that's why the CH now makes a high pitched hissing noise from the rads.
I thought I'd have to change it, but draining the system is a pain and adding the anti corrosion chemicals adds £10 to the job every time I do it.
I'll change the two brand new ones the installer put on at the same time as they have the narrow bore inside and I'm sure that's why the CH now makes a high pitched hissing noise from the rads.
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