You're stark raving to be even considering this IMO. I have seen this on other forums where people have tracked their existing concrete or cement screeded floors to lay piping to provide UF heating. Complete lunacy.
Underfloor heating in kitchen
- Thread starter MyNameOnly
- Start date
You're stark raving to be even considering this IMO. I have seen this on other forums where people have tracked their existing concrete or cement screeded floors to lay piping to provide UF heating. Complete lunacy.
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Having read the rather amusing post, I must admit that as a tiler and plumber I would never do what you intend. Underfloor heating mats are not that expensive. £220 for 5 square meters plus thermostatic timer.
Why I think matted underfloor heating is a better LONG term option.
Easy to fit and works well. Unlikely to fail unless you fixed it badly i.e cut through or has a tile edge straight on matt or not using flex adhesive.
Your idea is well creative and could be cheap to run, BUT there are so many BUTS that I think you will have something that will cost a tremendous amount to remedy once it fails. You have no idea how much heat will be lost from pipe to floor level. what will you cover the pipe with(lots of flex tile adhesive?). To accurately control the temp will be near impossible
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On the other hand you may have stumbled on an alternative way to heat floors. Only problem is you have to dig holes in concrete floors, lay pipes, cover pipes, hope your science works and does not fail- Sounds like 200-400 pound for heating mats depending on the size of floor may be a far better long term option.
Why I think matted underfloor heating is a better LONG term option.
Easy to fit and works well. Unlikely to fail unless you fixed it badly i.e cut through or has a tile edge straight on matt or not using flex adhesive.
Your idea is well creative and could be cheap to run, BUT there are so many BUTS that I think you will have something that will cost a tremendous amount to remedy once it fails. You have no idea how much heat will be lost from pipe to floor level. what will you cover the pipe with(lots of flex tile adhesive?). To accurately control the temp will be near impossible
...
On the other hand you may have stumbled on an alternative way to heat floors. Only problem is you have to dig holes in concrete floors, lay pipes, cover pipes, hope your science works and does not fail- Sounds like 200-400 pound for heating mats depending on the size of floor may be a far better long term option.
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Hm, it seems that it could be the only way forward... I'll have a good look - thanks for your help.
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That's quite cheap. I got a quote from a local company who was going to charge well over £600, and the room is no more than 5 meters by 3 meters.LLA said:
Is there a brand of heating mats that you folks would recommend?
might suggest you google it, bordersunderfloor for instance quote as little as £20 per metre,but many firms appear to dazzle you with fine facts and figures but wont tell you the cost
your money your choice, personally i feel due to the depth of insulation and the pipe matrix then a finished surface required that if you wanted to do it correctly you would need to drop the floor level to accomodate it.
Done a bit more digging and found this site. The diagram they have on that page seems to be doing something very similar to what I want. I've made my original diagram a bit more clearer.
Do you mean this?
If so, then that's a cabled system, not a wet one, and it isn't in channels. Note that insulation layer.
Even with a wet system it's usual to screed on top - it's the channels and ineffective insulation that makes your design weird.
If so, then that's a cabled system, not a wet one, and it isn't in channels. Note that insulation layer.
Even with a wet system it's usual to screed on top - it's the channels and ineffective insulation that makes your design weird.
Haha, very well, I'll start browing electric mats.Softus said:
Thanks all for your help and patience.
by the time you have finished channeling out you wont have much original floor left because of the amount of pipe you going to have install to make it vaguely effective, and as Softus pointed out thats a cabled system "electric" and be honest electric is very slow and disapointing.
ive never installed any underfloor but ive worked on a fair bit of both wet and dry stystems, as one of our clients has it in all their nurseries.
if you are serious about doing this why dont you do it properly?
as your contemplating nearly excavating the whole area why dont you and lower the floor level and replace the depth with a proper system.
this shows pretty much whats involved
http://www.underfloorheating1.co.uk..._new build_ installation_manual_June_2007.pdf
strangely matches the area you have
http://www.underfloorheating1.co.uk/product/Underfloor_Heating1_Single_Room_Kit
and before you dismiss the idea remember you will be channeling out 100m of concrete
because of the amount of pipe you going to have install to make it vaguely effective, and as Softus pointed out thats a cabled system "electric" and be honest electric is very slow and disapointing.ive never installed any underfloor but ive worked on a fair bit of both wet and dry stystems, as one of our clients has it in all their nurseries.
if you are serious about doing this why dont you do it properly?
as your contemplating nearly excavating the whole area why dont you and lower the floor level and replace the depth with a proper system.
this shows pretty much whats involved
http://www.underfloorheating1.co.uk..._new build_ installation_manual_June_2007.pdf
strangely matches the area you have
http://www.underfloorheating1.co.uk/product/Underfloor_Heating1_Single_Room_Kit
and before you dismiss the idea remember you will be channeling out 100m of concrete
Fit yourself a radiator mate!
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