viessmann vitotrol 150

it's the next bit that i can't get my head round at the moment:

"pump is off (in winter cycle) after a change to reduced mode subject to demand"
I think this means that when in "reduced mode" the pump will be OFF if the actual temperature is above 3C and ON if it is below 3C.
 
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yes i mean temp sensor which is on a north facing wall, 6 or 7 ft up, wired to boiler control.

i know this control acts like it's more intelligent than it's owner (which it might well be), it thinks it 'knows' when the outside temperature is colder than you expected it be so it can heat the system even when it's not programmed to...well that's what i think the brochure is getting at.

but, this pumping happens regardless of outside temp (could be plus 12 deg could be minus 10) and the pump appears to be pumping unheated water

re: the 'discovery'; maybe that's why it didn't click before...

as to how long this has been going on, boiler is 5 years old and i have had the house for 2 years. i think it has always happened during my time here but i can't be sure as it is only really noticeable at night and it doesn't happen in the summer, but then the heating is off, only hot water.

the installation looks to be high quality though that doesn't mean someone didn't do it incorrectly..
 
i think i will get a room stat and see what happens.

i can get a viessmann vitotrol 200 which is a fixed device but does anyone know if a generic wireless type will work with this control (vitotronic 150)?

thanks
 
Before you get the room stat, there should be a room stat link that you can open and see what effect that has on your pump running all the time.

Tony
 
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i could be wrong but i don't think this viessmann control works that way...

which i why i was asking if a 'generic' wireless stat could be used but i fear it will have to be a viessmann one...

anyway, i have stopped the pump going unnecessarily...

there is a list of about 6 or 7 codes i adjusted and i will go back through them and return them to their original setting to find out which one(s) made the difference. not the correct scientific method but should yield the results.

thanks for all help recieved. and i will let you know which code seems to be the culprit, i have a feeling it was 'pump logic control' as i think i remember having changed all ther other codes before in my attempts to solve it.
 
Your boiler has weather compensation, of a type not sold in the UK. The pump will run constantly in either comfort or reduced temperature mode - as long as the outside temperature is below the currently desired room temperature. This is not cooling the house down. You do not need, and cannot connect a room thermostat. Select 'dhw only' in summer.

The Vitotronic 150 is not the same as a Vitotronic 100 - there are many different 100s.
 
thanks for your input mysteryman but do you know why this function causes the pump to run so much and so unnecessarily? i can's see the benefit of it.

also, i would have to differ with you regarding the cooling of the house.
for example, if the temperature in my boiler shed through the night is 2 degrees C then the water being pumped through my rads is probably not much more. assuming my rooms are significantly warmer than this 2 degrees then the rads would actually absorb heat from the room thereby cooling it.
 
Typically rads emit more heat than they adsorb with the same delta T as they are fitted near the floor.

To get them to cool well they would need to be fitted close to the ceiling.

Tony
 
i'm not saying that rads are efficient cooling devices Agile, but due to the laws of physics a rad at 2 deg. C MUST absorb heat from a room that is even at 3 deg. C. and so much more when the room is at 18 or 20 degrees.
 
You are worrying unnecessarily about the system cooling the house. The weather comp needs the pump to be running - probably at reduced speed - in case the house needs heat. This will normally stop, as I said, when the outside temperature reaches the currently selected temp. This is assuming that your equipment is set to manufacturer's settings. By the way, if your shed and the outside temp drops to 2oC, the pump will run for frost protection.
 
i don't think i'm worrying about it but i am stating a fact about the cooling effect. probably has about the same effect as leaving one of your windows single glazed - not the end of the world, but something you'd like to get sorted sooner or later.

naturally the boiler is set to 'hot water only' during the summer but with the pump running almost contantly from october to april then there is a significant cumulative loss not to mention the electricity to drive the pump and it's reduced life span.

if the system does call for heat, due to frost protection or otherwise, then how does the pump already running benefit the system?, other than the time it takes for the pump to start water flowing again.

anyway, i have disabled 'pump logic control' which has stopped the pump but i would still like to know why this function would be of any use.
 
Its amazing, this thread, and I hope I am not too late in 'getting in' is almost precisely what has happened to me. Its a little frustrating that there isn't any 'answer' in the thread, but never mind.

I have the same controller, in France. I have no external management, i.e. no thermostat or external temp probe, so all is dependent on the boiler, each rad has a theormostatic valve. I have the installation since 2001 and no problem. However, this year, i.e. since October or so when I turned it on to both heating and water, it has, from time to time, started doing what was described above, the pump staying on. I tried the 'old trick' of resetting by turning the whole thing off for a while and it seemed to have cured the prob. The last few weeks the outside temp has been low (below the 3C set) but just these last days (in contrast to the rest of Europe) the temp has been >5C all the time. But just yesterday I was supposed to be going away for a few days and set it to standby and noticed the pump continued to run.... My flight was cancelled and when I got back here the pump was still running, but rads were cold. I turned the power off for 5 mins or so before starting it again and it seems to be sort of working, pump is on and off, but not following any pattern, that I can see.

The other weird thing, I just looked and it seems the hot water management has reset itself. I have it programmed for half hour at 06.00 and another hour at 15.30, having changed that from 16.30 last year. Now it is back to 16.30???? The central heating which runs 06.30 to 22.00 is as it was.

Confused!!
 
hi to all,

i thought i had solved my problem of pump running unnecessarily but it seems that it's not that simple.

i am pretty sure i had stopped it pumping all the time after i recoded some values but i then noticed that the boiler temp would stay very high after the heating had switched to reduced temp mode, (i.e. off).
it seems that now the boiler stops pumping the moment the standard room temp mode finishes and all the heat left in the boiler and pipework dissipates in the boiler shed over the next couple of hours....

what the hell is the point of this? or is there actually a fault with my system?

other than the frost protection function and the 'it's colder out there than we expected' function, which are valuable, i want my pump to pump only when the boiler is in standard room temp mode and for a period afterwards until the residual heat in the boiler is transfered to the house.
but how do i achieve this?

by the way, welcome barry and whereabouts are you?
 
Pumps seem to run alot longer with weather compensation and modulating controls, it seems that the boiler is looking for a deterioration in room temperature sensed on the boiler flow or return sensor...

Energy consumption of pumps can be as low as 50w... not that much..the house is probably evenly heated and very comfortable.
 
50 watts? we could be talking almost 24/7 so it's a fair amount of energy used for nothing.

evenly heated house? to be fair it's not bad... but the pump running constantly cannot help achieve this in any sensible way. if the pump takes 0.5 seconds to get water flowing from a standing start then that seems to be good enough for a response time. i am happy for the pump to keep going until the water is only a few degrees above the actual room temp as up to this point there can be some transfer of heat into the room but if the pump is pumping water that is colder than the rads then it MUST be counterproductive however slightly and the fact that the pump is already going when the program calls for heat is totally unnecessary in order to save a second or two. the boiler itself takes more time than that to actually fire up anyway.
 

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