Vokera Excell 80SP -Intermittent hot water

[jack_s]

My Auto Air Vent Bottle seems to be dripping a bit too much water from the cap.

Whenever I look, there is a small amount of water there.
I'd like to change it.

Looking at picture below, I see there is a Hex shape at its base to turn it I presume.

The bottle is screwed in to the pump up to the hex fitting, but the Hex is very thin.

Can you get a spanner that thin to turn it, which fits in the available gap ??

 

[nickso]

easy solution.....close the cap so no water gets out.

dangerous solution...... forget the nut section. use a pair of grips to remove it. be ready for the force needed to remove it to **** the pump seals and have to remove and replace them. i can't recommend enough the first solution.

 

[jack_s]

easy solution.....close the cap so no water gets out.

dangerous solution...... forget the nut section. use a pair of grips to remove it. be ready for the force needed to remove it to **** the pump seals and have to remove and replace them. i can't recommend enough the first solution.

The plastic cap has small holes in it, I assume to let the air out.

 

[nickso]

yes but if you close the cap the holes don't let anything out.

 

[jack_s]

yes but if you close the cap the holes don't let anything out.

Ok.

I thought the hole was always open, as hole is at top of plastic cap.

Have tightened up to close.

 

[jack_s]

yes but if you close the cap the holes don't let anything out.

Pressure is holding ok.

Thanks

 

[jack_s]

Ok, my boiler is finally working perfectly !!

Has fired up every time for last 3 weeks.

Changed:
-both microswitches (DHW & Flow),
-DHW Diaphragm & Stuffing Nut,
-lubed all pins with silicone grease (DHW, Flow, Diverter),
-straightened kink in one of tubes to Air Pressure Differential Switch,
-PCB,
-Safety Valve.

Think there were 2 main problems:

1) -DHW Microswitch/Fulcrum Arm movement was just on limit
2) -kink in one tube to Air Pressure Differential Switch

Probably explains why Fulcrum Arm design changed between 2 versions
of Excell 80SP boiler to include adjustable screw to operate DHW microswitch

4709416 -Excell 80SP (Old Hydraulics) -mine
4709417 -Excell 80SP (New Hydraulics)

Thanks

.......................................................................................................
Ps: I also managed to break the Fulcrum Arm !!!!!, but luckily managed to repair it,
phew, which is lucky as the part is obsolete & impossible to find !!

There was a thread on this subject last year:
Vokera Fulcrum arm

If anyone has or comes across this Fulcrum Arm or comes across following boilers, please let me know
301191 = 6854

4709416 -Excell 80SP (Old Hydraulics)
4709413 -Excell 80E (Old Hydraulics)
4709414 -Excell 96E (Old Hydraulics)
4709424 -Eclipse ESC

 

[jack_s]

How about ALL of them and one of the figure 8 O ring.

I'm just doing the DHW Valve for now.

Some parts in kit are for Flow Valve & Diverter Valve I believe, I'll do those another time.

Just want to know how many parts are for DHW Valve ??

Jack, why not change all the bits that came in the kit. How do you know the remaining bits are not defective? I do this work for a living and giving you advice free of charge. No skin off my nose if you chose to change domestic manifold dia and leave other bits for a fine day. The diverter section if gummed up will also cause your boiler to bellyache.

I'm finally going to replace parts on Diverter Valve from service kit, as radiators are getting hot when I turn on Domestic Hot Water.

Is it straightforward replacement of parts or anything else particular I need to check or do ??

Just checking before I take apart.


From service kit picture, looks like there are 5 parts to replace:
1xthin washer, 1xthick washer, 1xfigure 8 o-ring, 1xstuffing nut, 1xplastic diverter thingy

Thanks

Untitled

• jack_s
• 23 Sep 2010
• 1

 

[Agile]

Yes, and all rather fiddly to access!

Tony

 

[DP]

The post started on July 1st 2010 and today it is September 18th 2012. The boiler has been struggling for over two years during which period it would have been serviced twice if manufacturer's instruction were followed.

If this were my boiler and I had 10 thumbs when it comes to boiler knowledge, my wife would be long gone and I would not even occupy a memory cell in her brain. I have a Vaillant 831 as S plan with two progstats. When I fitted the said progstats, she was not happy with their operation. She threatened to call a heating engineer to fix her heating system

I would like to award a Gold Star to S Jack for his persistance and staying power

 

[jack_s]

Yes, and all rather fiddly to access!

Tony

That's good news.

Should be ok, take out PCB & Fulcrum Arm to get clear acess to Diverter Valve.

I've done it before for Flow & DHW Diaphragms & Switches.

Thanks

 

[jack_s]

The post started on July 1st 2010 and today it is September 18th 2012. The boiler has been struggling for over two years during which period it would have been serviced twice if manufacturer's instruction were followed.

If this were my boiler and I had 10 thumbs when it comes to boiler knowledge, my wife would be long gone and I would not even occupy a memory cell in her brain. I have a Vaillant 831 as S plan with two progstats. When I fitted the said progstats, she was not happy with their operation. She threatened to call a heating engineer to fix her heating system

I would like to award a Gold Star to S Jack for his persistance and staying power

Good to see you're still here on the boards.

Boiler has been running lovely, just finally getting round to doing Diverter Valve.

Thanks

 

[jack_s]

Took the Diverter Valve apart to replace parts from service kit.

Untitled

• jack_s
• 4 Oct 2012
• 1

Untitled

• jack_s
• 4 Oct 2012
• 1

Untitled

• jack_s
• 4 Oct 2012
• 1

Typical, that some things on mine (which uses old 4709416 -Excell 80SP (Old Hydraulics) )
looks slightly different to that in service kit.

1) The pin doesn't seem to come away from my old plastic diverter.
Does it click into place ?

Do you need to force it out ?

How do I remove the pin, as it doesn't seem to come out easily ??

Untitled

• jack_s
• 4 Oct 2012
• 1

2) My old plastic diverter (black one in pictures) is slightly different to service kit replacement & uses different washer.

The old washer next to the pin is thicker, has internal groove which slips over the lip on plastic diverter.

Whereas new plastic diverter (white one in pictures) uses flat thin washer which pushes on & sits in front.
(see pictures)

Untitled

• jack_s
• 4 Oct 2012
• 1

Untitled

• jack_s
• 4 Oct 2012
• 1

3) There seems to be an O-ring on a metal insert, which the plastic diverter sits in.
(see pictures)

There isn't one of these O-rings in the service kit.

I assume I need to change this O-ring, as it seems to provide additional seal to the figure 8 O-ring.

Untitled

• jack_s
• 4 Oct 2012
• 1

Untitled

• jack_s
• 4 Oct 2012
• 1

Untitled

• jack_s
• 4 Oct 2012
• 1

The only seal which seems to have seriously deteriorated is the figure 8 O-ring, which was brittle & breaking up. The other o-rings are still flexible & not breaking up.

As this O-ring is missing from service kit, should I just buy similiar O-ring to replace it ??


Service kit parts:

Untitled

• jack_s
• 4 Oct 2012
• 1

 

[ianmcd]

Is this post for real ????????????????? how long has it been going on ?? how many qualified engineers have correctly told you what is wrong and how to repair the fault ????? rant over

 

[Dan Robinson]

How do I remove the pin, as it doesn't seem to come out easily ?

*sigh*


Can't be a7sed to read the whole thread, but I wonder what the chances are that the fulcrum is just missing the micro-switch