what to ask for when having a full re-wire

[Surfr101]

Im looking to get a full re-wire on a house and am looking for advice on how to get the best deal and what to insist on etc.

Are there different types of consumer unit and any new technologies like smart meters that are worth fitting at the same time etc.

Thanks

 

[ricicle]

Get a couple of quotes in and ask them to specify manufacturers of their materials and then come back on here with the spec. and we will do our best to pick it to pieces for you.

 

[sparkiedave]

It's best to plan what you want first, if you can do a plan of each floor of the property, work out what you want, number and positions of sockets/lights etc, then get advice from a couple of sparks, along with quotes and costs of any points where you can choose different options

 

[ban-all-sheds]

IMO it's a good idea to put all wiring in conduit for ease of future changes. And if you specify metal conduit for switch drops, or BS 8436 cable it removes the need to have RCDs where you'd rather not.

Think hard about where to have sockets - it's difficult to have too many, and also about what circuits to have. The items on the list below won't all apply to you, but they are worth thinking about:

• Upstairs sockets
• Downstairs sockets
• Kitchen sockets
• Circuit for appliances
• Cooker circuit
• Non-RCD circuit for F/F
• Non-RCD circuit for CH boiler
• Dedicated circuit for hifi
• Dedicated circuit for IT equipment
• Upstairs lights
• Downstairs lights
• Immersion heater
• Loft lights
• Shower
• Bathroom circuit
• Alarms
• Supply for outside lights
• Supply for garden electrics
• Supply for shed/garage

Plus any peculiarities brought about by your house layout & construction - e.g. in mine because of solid floors and where the socket circuits run, I have a radial just for a socket in the hall, the doorbell and the porch lights.

Flood-wiring with Cat6 or Cat6a cable is worth thinking about.

Unless you want to go to the expense of RCBOs throughout, the CU should have at least 3 sections, 2 on RCDs and one not into which you can install a mix of RCBOs and MCBs.

If you live somewhere where supplies are dodgy in the winter, have the lights, the boiler supply, and a socket in each room wired to a separate CU, or a separate section in a large one, that can be supplied by an emergency generator - lights, heating, TV and a kettle/microwave make life a lot more bearable.


Smart metering is not up to you - your supplier is responsible for that.

 

[plugwash]

One key descision to make is how to approach RCD protection.

The 17th edition requires RCD protection for all sockets. It also requires it for some types of concealed cabling and for anything in a bathroom.

RCDs can be prone to nuisance tripping so the best soloution is to put RCD protection as close to the point of use as allowable but this tends to be more expensive than domestic customers will put up with (both in terms of the cost of the RCD sockets and in terms of the more expensive wiring installation methods that are required for non-rcd concealed cables).

So you have to decide how much you want the installation split between different RCDs/RCBOs (A rcbo is a combination MCB/RCD used to protect a single outgoing circuit). A dual RCD split is the least that is considered acceptable by most electricians but it's a pretty ****ty soloution IMO.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Your central heating electrics will probably need rewiring at the same time.

 

[Surfr101]

I appreciate all the advice, gives me a lot to consider.

Thanks Again.

 

[riveralt]

While its nice to have an open canvas and a significant wish list what you get will ultimately come down to what you can afford.

I'm not sure why there is a desire to avoid RCD's/RCBO's. The introduction of steel conduit or other counter measures while avoiding the need for RCD/RCBO will add significantly to the cost. I would charge double for fitting steel conduit and singles primarily because of the extra time and cost of materials.

If you have a concern about nuisance tripping then consider RCBO's - these provide overcurrent and additional protection for individual circuits.

Material cost for a Wylex case and 10 MCBs around £60.
Material cost for a Wylex (I know!) Dual 10 way RCD Board - around £100
Material cost for Wylex case and 10 RCBOs around £240.

Also are you really going to make changes in the future? Remember if you do move or add a socket or a switch and you have used conduit then you must continue to use conduit. Furthermore, adding conduit or even SWA cable while adding to your cost will not add value to your property.

As a very rough guide (here in the north west) work on a price of £50 per socket or lighting point.

Finally as others have pointed out make you sure you compare like for like. A Marbo white double socket costs 90p trade while an MK double socket costs nearly £3.

 

[Surfr101]

One other question that comes to mind is "making good." The house has wooden floorboards, so hopefully that will reduce the chasing in the walls, but what does "making good" actually cover and how much extra should I expect to pay?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You should expect to pay whatever the electrician you eventually choose charges.

Seriously, there are so many variables that you are only going to start to make real progress if you start getting electricians in to look at the place and discuss what you want them to do.

As ever, personal recommendations are always the best way to find a reputable tradesman, but if you're having to go ahead without much in the way of those, or references, don't put any store by registration itself - sadly it is possible to become registered with woefully inadequate qualifications and zero practical experience. You don't have to spend long here to see people cropping up who are registered and "qualified", but who are clearly seriously incompetent in reality and who should not be charging for their services.

It's your money, £'000s of it, and you have every right to ask prospective tradesmen what their qualifications are. Just being listed here is not a good enough guide. No genuinely experienced electrician, with the "full set" of C&G qualifications will mind you asking - in fact he will wish that everyone was like you.

I feel sorry for people who have been misled by training organisations and (shamefully) the Competent Person scheme organisers into thinking that a 5-day training course, a couple of trivial examples of their work and some basic understanding of how to use test equipment will make them an electrician, but not sorry enough to agree with them trying to sell their services to Joe Public.

 

[ricicle]

I feel sorry for people who have been misled by training organisations and (shamefully) the Competent Person scheme organisers into thinking that a 5-day training course, a couple of trivial examples of their work and some basic understanding of how to use test equipment will make them an electrician, but not sorry enough to agree with them trying to sell their services to Joe Public.

Excellent statement

 

[Surfr101]

What should be the minimum qualifications I should request?

Remember this is only for a domestic install, not a complex office installation, so I dont want to go overboard.

 

[riveralt]

What should be the minimum qualifications I should request?

Remember this is only for a domestic install, not a complex office installation, so I dont want to go overboard.

Doesn't really matter what type of installation it is, the electrician involved should be experienced, knowledgeable and capable of discussing your needs. He/she should have a good knowledge of BS7671, the Building Regulations and be able to show references of their work.

As BAS said, qualifications in themselves are not necessarily an indicator of a good electrician - however, for NAPIT, there is a requirement for the following City & Guilds examinations or their equivalent - 2330 Part 2 & 3, 2382 (IEE Wiring Regulations BS7671 17th edition) and 2391 (Inspection & Testing).

Electricians have to requalify with 2382 and 2391 every five years and they are also subject to a yearly assessment - when an inspector will re-inspect two pieces of work done by the contractor within the last three months.

I know that NAPIT and I believe NICEI offer insurance backed guarantees to their work - other competent persons schemes may do the same.

You can view for yourself at:


http://www.napit.org.uk/defaultConsumer.asp
and
http://www.niceic.com/en/householder/section.asp?SECTION=52

 

[ban-all-sheds]

As BAS said, qualifications in themselves are not necessarily an indicator of a good electrician

Basically I'm saying steer clear of anyone who only has the Domestic Installer NVQ and C&G 2381/2382 - look for 2360 Part 2 or 2330 Level 3, and 2400 or 2391. And experience.

 

[ColJack]

Electricians have to requalify with 2382 and 2391 every five years..

do we?
I know we have to do the regs again when they make ammendments but I didn't know we had to re-take the I&T every 5 years..
who's bright idea at money making was that? surely as long as you keep your regs up to date, the testing and inspection doesn't change that much other than the figures and what to look for which would be covered by the regs update..