Which type of cable to install for alarm wire

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Hi

I haven't decided what hard wired alarm system I want yet as part of my house build.

Can someone please confirm if all alarm wire is the same type and if I can run those myself now without having to consult a professional firm and only approach them at 2nd fix? Maybe get them to test the cable before all the plasterboarding goes up?

Also I saw the following external sensor in the garden of one house. Is this a proximity / perimeter sensor? If so, what alarm system does this belong to or do all alarm systems offer them?

image.jpeg
 
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yes run an 8 Core alarm cable throughout and you will be fine. Star wire to a central point where your control panel will be fitted.
 
what do you mean by star wire? Any links to what you would order for the above?
 
http://www.cctvshopltd.co.uk/index.php?id_product=34&controller=product&id_lang=1

That detector in the picture comes as a pair. There should be another one in the direction that is facing as there is usually a transmitter and receiver. This sends multiple beams which when broken trigger a relay. You can connect this to your alarm using the same cable assuming its complete.

Star Wiring.

You will have a central point where the main alarm panel is. Take a single 8 core out to each individual device. Do not loop from one device to the next.
This includes
PIRs
Door Contacts
Keypads
Siren
 
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Ok so the cable is pretty cheap then. A few more questions:

1. The external sensor, what is the proper name for it - proximity sensor or perimeter sensor?
2. Is it independent of the alarm manufacturer i.e. Scantronic / Texecom etc
3. Are there any good reasons to have a PIR on loft room floor of a house (I know opportunistic burglars wont bother climbing up that far, but is there anything I am missing that might be still worth adding a PIR there since my home ceilings and walls are still open?
4. How much could I expect to save on an install because the professionals will only come in at 2nd fix? I got one quote some time ago and there was little or no saving at all
5. Do door and window contacts still have a purpose when a PIR internal or external seems to do a good job. I seem to hear more false alarms from my sister's texecom alarm waking me up on auto dialler because of it for the last 10 years.
 
1. Well its a break beam detector so only send a narrow beam between transmitter and receiver which triggers when broken.
2. Yes most standard professional alarms work in the same way and will use this cable
3. Well your choice really is it easy to get on roof/are you likely to leave any upstairs windows open.
4. Ring round again, we have a pre wired price which saves about £ 150.00 (sorry dont cover your area)
5. Door contacts useful on many entry door and essential on monitored systems. Windows not really.

Door and window contacts would be considered perimeter protection and can be useful if you have pets.
We generally use PIRs in rooms and a contact on the main entry door. Handy if you want to chime when the door opens too.
 
2. Sorry I meant is the break beam detector make independent of the alarm manufacturer? How much are they typically per pair, what makes would you rate and is there any advanced or technological difference between them?

For example, are there which does not need a receiver but has the ability to to throw 2 or 3 IR beams to cover a 45 degree angle so that when only two of three are broken, it beeps inside the home?

How could I wire it so that if several 2 of 3 beams are broken it also switches on a light. This would save me having to install separate GJD security lighting.

Finally, is there a way of having a contact of some sort to know when the large cross sectional garage door opens?

Thanks for your answers, much appreciated.
 
Hi musszzy

Any chance for a reply? Cheers.

Also yes it's possible the pre- install cost saving might have been something like £100-£150 which I dismissed as not being that much because I thought that an installer having to open floors and run cables in the ceilings etc would take them the better part of a good day. Am I wrong in that assumption?
 
Hmmm lotta questions.
Yes break beam is a different manufacturer but don't really matter.
Don't remember cost but they aren't cheap.
They are a good manufacturer very well rated
YOU would need an external pir (opal elite) springs to mind but any external detector is prone to false alarms(except the beams u have)
Yes on the garage but I don't know your layout.

The pre install assumed the cabling is already fitted.
 
Half a day for cabling, half a day to mount and connect the detectors, panel, ancillaries and program/commission/handover... £150 sounds about right. When you do it for a living, cabling can be quick!

I'm not sure that you've understood the beam - inside your Optex device there will be (say) some high power infrared LEDs and lenses that "shine out" of the case through the plastic. Somewhere else, there will be an identical-looking unit that contains IR transistors (receivers) and lenses. The internal lenses are "aimed" at each other so that the beam(s) of IR light from the transmitter go directly to the receiver. Physically, this could be straight out, away from the wall, or sideways, along the wall. Anything breaking the beam will cause the receiver to trigger its alarm relay and this is connected to your alarm... If you were Tom Cruise, you could get special glasses or an aerosol can and see the beams (but not in real life!!).

The GJD device is a PIR - PASSIVE Infra Red detector. This doesn't emit anything - it only looks. PIRs are fitted with with many lenses that focus the IR emitted by warm objects (generally, living things) onto a single sensor. These lenses create "looking lines" that are often (wrongly) referred to as "beams". They are NOT beams as the device is passive. When a warm object passes across one of these looking lines, the IR creates a "flash", and therefore an electrical pulse, on the sensor. The PIR's electronics counts these pulses as the object crosses the looking lines and triggers its alarm relay at the appropriate count.

Use the active beams (Optex - other makes are available) as an invisible barrier for perimeter detection. Use a PIR (GJD) to detect people (or animals) in an area.

You can use these devices with (virtually) any make of alarm. The only time that you need to stick to a particular manufacture's detectors is if you are using wireless, as the radio signals are all proprietary (another good reason for not using wireless!!).

Finally, one thing that may be worth considering is fitting smoke detectors to your alarm. If you already have interlinked, mains-powered smoke alarms then don't bother. Having some smoke and/or heat detectors connected to your alarm will mean that you can use the alarm's comms to tell someone that they've gone off. It also means that your alarm company will service them and you won't get woken at 4am by the annoying be-beep of a dying battery! Menvier M12 is good as is the Texecom OH-blah-blah (sorry - can't remember the part no.).
 
EightyTwo,
Thx for that detailed explanation.

In summary which of the two technologigies are better then in your opinion? Sounds to me that PIR might be better as it has a larger radius detection compared with a simple beam break trigger. It also means that I don't need both a transmitter and receiver.

Am currently looking at the Texecom wired/wireless external PIR TD / TD-W range but they do appear a little bulky and noticeable on the wall compared with the Optex.
 
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Also how best to deal with bi folding doors which might all open all the way or another design that parts ways? How should I bring the cable down?

I guess sliding patio doors are easy to connect?
 
Sorry - been off the site for a bit..

Which is better..? - PIRs cover a wide area whilst beams are more like a fence. It depends on what you're trying to detect and where it's coming from. Also, think about what could cause false alarms (animals, plants, passers-by...). A false alarm is like "crying 'WOLF!'" and you'll soon ignore it going off.

Bifold doors. - Use a contact on each door (or in the middle, if the leaf is attached at both ends). If you can drop a cable through the top of the frame without compromising the weatherproofing, you could fit a flush contact. Otherwise, it will need to be a surface one. I prefer to put the contacts at the top where they are out of the way. You'll probably need one for each set of doors unless you have to open one door first.
 

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