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fitting new syncro switch on honeywell 2 port valve

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beermontypython

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Feb 2006
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Location: Derbyshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 6:16 pm Reply with quote

After reading these forums I have bought a new syncro switch, but am a little confused as to fitting it.
There are 2 orange wires coming out of the new switch with spade terminals.There are also 2 plastic terminal covers.
Looking at the old one It has another wire connected to each of the syncro wires terminated into a plastic terminal cover.
Do I have to cut the old wires off the old syncro, if I have to do that how do i connect it then to the new syncro orange wires spade terminals..
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Cpplumber

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Joined: 04 Jan 2012
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:50 pm Reply with quote

Hi,

Doesn't matter which wire to which wire!

Just cut them and join them. The plastic caps are crimps.cjust pop the wires into the cap and crimp shut, preferably with a crimp tool.

Good luck
Carl
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Cpplumber

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 7:51 pm Reply with quote

If you weren't supplied with the plastic cap type crimps you can use normal crimps.
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Boilerman2

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:09 pm Reply with quote

And try not to loose the tiny screw that secures the motor to the valve body, if dropped it ALWAYS dissapears down a crack in the floorboards!! icon_wink.gif
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beermontypython

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Location: Derbyshire,
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:11 pm Reply with quote

That sounds brilliant,,do I need to cut off the spade from the new syn wires.and just twist the 2 together then crimp.
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Boilerman2

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:21 pm Reply with quote

that is correct - make very sure that you have isolated the electrical supply and confirmed it is dead using a meter! icon_wink.gif
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misterdubya

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:29 pm Reply with quote

Boilerman2 wrote:
And try not to loose the tiny screw that secures the motor to the valve body, if dropped it ALWAYS dissapears down a crack in the floorboards!! icon_wink.gif


And just to add, (if you have a honeywell valve with a 'bump' on the cover) you will have 1 screw. If not, you will have 2.

Mr. W.
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Gasop

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:35 pm Reply with quote

misterdubya wrote:
Boilerman2 wrote:
And try not to loose the tiny screw that secures the motor to the valve body, if dropped it ALWAYS dissapears down a crack in the floorboards!! icon_wink.gif


And just to add, (if you have a honeywell valve with a 'bump' on the cover) you will have 1 screw. If not, you will have 2.

Mr. W.


icon_sad.gif icon_sad.gif TWO screws icon_question.gif I only got one this month (or was it this year??)
ahh, well, icon_twisted.gif
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beermontypython

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Feb 2006
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Location: Derbyshire,
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:39 pm Reply with quote

Well what can I say other than a big thank you..I am 67 years of age and the thought of having to call an engineer out frightens me. I realise it has taken years of training to become skilled and they are entitled to a decent living but the call out costs are scarey before you even start talking about parts and labour. So I will tackle the job tomorrow and hopefully it will sort out the problem of my boiler firing up randomly even with the programmer off.. I will let you all know. MANY MANY THANKS
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Agile

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 11:18 pm Reply with quote

I am not convinced that you have correctly identified the problem.

However, you will find out when you change the motor.

Tony
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FiremanT

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 8:01 am Reply with quote

. So I will tackle the job tomorrow and hopefully it will sort out the problem of my boiler firing up randomly even with the programmer off.. I will let you all know. MANY MANY THANKS[/quote]

Oh. dear.
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beermontypython

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Feb 2006
Posts: 60
Location: Derbyshire,
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 8:30 am Reply with quote

Boilerman2 wrote:
that is correct - make very sure that you have isolated the electrical supply and confirmed it is dead using a meter! icon_wink.gif


One thing I didn't mention is the sync switch is a Drayton from Screwfix,, will this be suitable,,,thanks
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beermontypython

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Feb 2006
Posts: 60
Location: Derbyshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2012 8:32 am Reply with quote

FiremanT wrote:
. So I will tackle the job tomorrow and hopefully it will sort out the problem of my boiler firing up randomly even with the programmer off.. I will let you all know. MANY MANY THANKS


Oh. dear.[/quote]

Well up until reading your post I fealt hopefull but now "oh dear" makes me wonder if I should try to fix it...
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beermontypython

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Feb 2006
Posts: 60
Location: Derbyshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 10:39 am Reply with quote

Well gents,,I have fitted the new sync switch, straight forward enough and all crimped up but it hasn't resolved the problem.
Whilst I had the sync switch out I had a look at the valve itself just to see if it had gotten sloppy but it seems ok although when I open the valve manually with the slide, it seems to work ok other than it doesn' go all the way back,is that normal, it stops short about 6mm and I wonder could the problem be that the valve is not closing properly allowing water through and when we pull hot water off it's just topping up.
As I said previously the boiler fires up even when the programs are turned off, and it only fires up for a short time.
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beermontypython

from United Kingdom

Joined: 03 Feb 2006
Posts: 60
Location: Derbyshire,
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:12 pm Reply with quote

Any more suggestions on this one please
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