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crea

Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 16 Location: Lancashire, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:06 pm |
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Hello all,
Just purchased an AEG ceramic glass induction hob (7.4 kW) and oven (3 kW) and am looking to install them.
Having read around the message board, am I right in thinking that I can do this on one new radial circuit, using 10mm2 cable from a 45 amp mcb in my consumer unit to a double pole cooker control unit near to the cooker? Then run 10mm2 cable to two (one for each appliance) terminal outlet boxes, if so, do both cables from the terminal outlet boxes get connected together in the cooker control unit? Also the instruction manuals for the appliances mention using specific cables to connect to the appliance terminal blocks, H05VV-F or H05RR-F for the oven and H05BB-F Tmax 90 (or higher) for the hob, what are these?
Finally the instruction manual for the hob also states that a protective floor must be installed under the appliance and the appliance must be protected from steam if an oven is fitted below, any ideas where I can obtain the above from, the built in cooker kitchen unit I bought from Ikea did not contain any such items.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers! |
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Steve

Joined: 15 Apr 2005 Posts: 15753 Location: Yorkshire, United Kingdom Thanked: 211 times
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Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:20 pm |
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A 32A MCB would suffice for the hob, with 6mm˛ cable, but it never hurts to put in 10mm˛.
The oven should be supplied seperately, from a 13A FCU, or it can be plugged in (yes, plugged in) to a normal socket
What we did is wire a socket to the cooker circuit, so the control switch also turns the socket off. wiring to the socket needs to be 6mm˛. You could use an FCU on the cooker circuit instead of a plug and socket.
If you do put the hob and oven on the same circuit, I would use a 40A MCB and 10mm˛ cable to the switch. Then use 6mm˛ cable from the switch to the socket/hob.
not sure about the protective floor. contact the manufacturers. |
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crea

Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 16 Location: Lancashire, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 9:24 pm |
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Hi Crafty,
Thanx for the speedy reply  !
Sorry if I come across as being a little bit stupid  , but am new to this and obviously it being electrics, I want to make sure I get it right! To clarify, I put a 40 amp MCB in my consumer unit, run 10mm2 cable to the cooker control unit, have two 6mm2 cables connected to the load side of the CCU, one running to a 13 amp? FCU for the oven and the other wired directly into the terminal block of the hob?
Once again thanx in advance. |
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andy

Joined: 14 Sep 2004 Posts: 3971 Location: United Kingdom Thanked: 2 times
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Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 9:30 pm |
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yes, but connecting 2 6mm T&E to the cooker control might be a pain in the a**e. go for a 2gang sized without switch to give you more space |
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crea

Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 16 Location: Lancashire, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 9:59 pm |
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Hi Andy,
Thanx for the clarification, one more question, the cable from the FCU to the terminal block on the oven, what size should it be, can I use 2.5mm2 or should it also be 6mm2? Do the cable codes stated in the appliance instruction manuals and mentioned in my original query mean anything to you?
Cheers! |
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crea

Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 16 Location: Lancashire, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 10:31 pm |
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Hello again all,
Just been and had a look at my CU and have found two unused MCB's (house was rewired last year and the circuits these ran are no longer used) one is a 16 amp and the other a 32 amp. Would a better solution be to run 2.5mm2 cable from the 16 amp MCB to a 13 amp FCU for the oven and 6mm2 from the 32 amp to a CCU for the hob, giving each it's own circuit? Also, regarding the cables to be used to connect the FCU to the terminal block on the oven and the CCU to the terminal block on the hob, is it OK to use standard 2.5mm2 and 6mm2 respectively, or do I need to find out what the codes mentioned in the appliance instruction manuals mean and use those?
Thanx again. |
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Steve

Joined: 15 Apr 2005 Posts: 15753 Location: Yorkshire, United Kingdom Thanked: 211 times
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Posted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 10:38 pm |
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| crea wrote: | Hello again all,
Just been and had a look at my CU and have found two unused MCB's (house was rewired last year and the circuits these ran are no longer used) one is a 16 amp and the other a 32 amp. Would a better solution be to run 2.5mm2 cable from the 16 amp MCB to a 13 amp FCU for the oven and 6mm2 from the 32 amp to a CCU for the hob, giving each it's own circuit? Also, regarding the cables to be used to connect the FCU to the terminal block on the oven and the CCU to the terminal block on the hob, is it OK to use standard 2.5mm2 and 6mm2 respectively, or do I need to find out what the codes mentioned in the appliance instruction manuals mean and use those?
Thanx again. |
this is a good idea.
32A for the hob, wired in 6mm˛ cable. With cooker switch above worktop.
16A for oven. wired in 2.5mm˛. With switched FCU ABOVE worktop, and flex outlet plate behind oven.
I think there is a table in "for reference" to show what the cable codes mean. Have a look in that, but only use these cables from the appliance to the outlet plates. I wouldn't think it was nessecary anywhere else. |
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andy

Joined: 14 Sep 2004 Posts: 3971 Location: United Kingdom Thanked: 2 times
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Posted: Wed Mar 08, 2006 8:28 am |
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| crea wrote: | Hello again all,
Just been and had a look at my CU and have found two unused MCB's (house was rewired last year and the circuits these ran are no longer used) one is a 16 amp and the other a 32 amp. Would a better solution be to run 2.5mm2 cable from the 16 amp MCB to a 13 amp FCU for the oven and 6mm2 from the 32 amp to a CCU for the hob, giving each it's own circuit? Also, regarding the cables to be used to connect the FCU to the terminal block on the oven and the CCU to the terminal block on the hob, is it OK to use standard 2.5mm2 and 6mm2 respectively, or do I need to find out what the codes mentioned in the appliance instruction manuals mean and use those?
Thanx again. |
even better. you can use 1.5mmT&E from 13A FCU if you wanted, altho i would keep it at 2.5 |
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crea

Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 16 Location: Lancashire, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 9:00 pm |
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Thanx Guys!
Assistance very much appreciated! |
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gordman

Joined: 29 Aug 2007 Posts: 3 Location: Bradford, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:25 pm |
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Thanks for the advice, they are very practical. I never was good with plumbings, that's why I try to pick up best [url=]appliance parts[/url] when buying, to avoid plumbing situations as much as possible. |
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Steve

Joined: 15 Apr 2005 Posts: 15753 Location: Yorkshire, United Kingdom Thanked: 211 times
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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:29 pm |
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gordman, you've put 3 posts on this forum. Your third is a blatant advert. Why? |
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electronicsuk

Joined: 07 May 2007 Posts: 3303 Location: Lincolnshire, United Kingdom Thanked: 273 times
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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 5:44 pm |
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| gordman wrote: | | Thanks for the advice, they are very practical. I never was good with plumbings, that's why I try to pick up best [url=]appliance parts[/url] when buying, to avoid plumbing situations as much as possible. |
I never were good for english grammar. |
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