Cooker Plug/Switch

richrobson · 22 May 2009

Hi all.
I have a query im hoping someone will be able to help me with.
Basically, i have fitted a new kitchen at home, we have a free standing cooker, which has a cable with plug (obviously) that is plugged into a face fixed box on the wall apprx 700mm above the cooker. the box has 2 switches with lights, and one socket. It does look really unsightly, so i am wanting to remove the box on the wall, and just run the cooker from a normal double socket which i have to the left of the cooker above the w/top.

QUESTION - How do i remove the box on the wall safely ?

I understand that the box is wired seperately to the rest of the kitchen/house, i just want rid of it.

PS, the cooker is Gas, so i assume that the cable and plug is just for the ignition ??

Thanks in advance for any help

oharaf · 22 May 2009

If the socket is supplied on its own circuit then you need to isolate the circuit first, remove the socket and the cable back to the consumer unit and disconnect there.

Alternatively, you can isolate the circuit, remove the socket, put the ends in choc block and put a blanking plate over it

richrobson · 22 May 2009

Thanks for the quick reply oharaf.

i think the second option sounds the best, as i have just tiles my kitchne floor and would probably struggle to remove the wire completely.

'Alternatively, you can isolate the circuit, remove the socket, put the ends in choc block and put a blanking plate over it'

Sorry for my ignorance, but does isolating it mean taking the fuse out ?? i think i know what a choc block is, but i may struggle with a blanking plate, as the box is face fixed and not sunk in the wall ??

Please correct me if i am wrong.

PS, i will be tiling over the wall when it is removed.

richrobson · 22 May 2009

PLEEEEEEEAAAAASE HELP !!!!!

ColJack · 22 May 2009

PS, i will be tiling over the wall when it is removed.

not without removing the cable first you won't...!!!!!!

get an electrician in, you don't sound capable of doing this safely and you will need to disconnect the wires from the fuse in the board and cut the wires off to prevent re-connection..

PLEEEEEEEAAAAASE HELP !!!!!

don't be so impatient... there aren't people hanging on your every word here you know...
we give advice freely..

oharaf · 23 May 2009

Col is dead right rich, you cannot tile over the cable and choc block, it is one or the other.

If you want someone to take a gander I'm near you, it mighten be as bad as you think to do.

Are you absolutely certain nothing else is on that circuit?

richrobson · 23 May 2009

sorry, i didnt mean to come across as impatient, i was looking to start the tiling tomorrow thats all, and just needed an answer as soon as possible.
i didnt expect an answer straight away, but you did answer, so everything is all good.

So, the way i see it is, i would be better off keeping the box on the wall, but buying a new box and flush fitting it to the wall?? that way, No unsightly box, and the wire from the cooker can still go to the double socket, and the cooker point is still working for future use ??

Thanks for the help on this.

oharaf · 23 May 2009

That sounds like a GOOD plan to me.

richrobson · 23 May 2009

haha, option c it is then.

So if i take out the fuse on the main unit, remove the 'unsightly' box, and chisel the wall, and just re-wire the new face plate and fit flush ??

BINGO ????

Hmmmmm, one more question. Why does the box have 2 switches on it ??
the box did have writing on it at some point, over each switch, but over the years it has worn away.

ColJack · 23 May 2009

one for a cooker circuit ( which will be below the counter to wire in a cooker ) and one for a general use socket ( that you have your cooker plugged into..

now

are you aware of part P? check it out in the wiki..
what size is the cooker?
electric, gas, both?

richrobson · 23 May 2009

ah right, i see. well nothing is below the counter, so that must have been plastered over before we moved in.

Part P ? I'm just gonna look it up now, i'll get back to you on that one.

Hmmm, not sure on the size of the cooker, but its all gas, just needs the electric for the spark/light/clock etc etc.

richrobson · 23 May 2009

Regarding Part P, if i just chnage the box to a flush fixed panel, i dont need to notify ??

i'm leaning more towards this option, rather than doing away with the box al together, because knowing my wife, 2 years down the line, she will want an oven and hob fitting, thus requiring it all putting back in again.

ColJack · 23 May 2009

not sure..

it says that replaceing / refixing enclosures is not notifiable, but it does say that work in a kitchen IS notifiable..

since you're not really changing anything, just sinking the backbox ( don't forget to use grommets and earth sleeving ) then I won't tell if you don't..

richrobson · 23 May 2009

Ye, i noticed that too, could have been set out better really eh ??

Again, excuse my being thick, but Grommets ????? i have earth sleeving from when i did my sockets. will my sockets need these grommets too then ??

ColJack · 23 May 2009

gromets are rubber rings that go over the sharp edges of the knockouts in the metal backbox to stop the cable chafing etc..

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Cooker Plug/Switch

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