Ok I know I should of got a professional in to do the job but I turned main power supply off and installed new switches and sockets all the switches I installed were working fine when I switched main supply on but notcied my fridge did not come on, so my friend was upstairs whilst I went down and checked trip switch. Main trip switch was on but trip switch for upstairs sockets was switched off, when I tried to switch it on, apparently the plug in the room where my friend was blew and upstirs socket trip switch went back off. Anyway I checked my down stairs plug sockets and they are all working fine except for 9 out of 10 in the kitchen (one is working) (fridge). My questions are....1. Why are 9 out of 10 downstairs kitchen plug sockets not working but only the trip switch for upstairs sockets not working. 2. I only installed 3 plugs upstairs, will it be a prob with one of them? 3. The back kitchen is almost underneath one of the bedroom I installed. 4. What do I do?
New Plug sockets Installed and half are only working
- Thread starter Nicci33
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There are many ways to install sockets rings, radials and spurs off both types and to guess what you have done would likely be wrong. Except to say you must have a short circuit somewhere.
When fitting sockets especially with ring mains it is very important to test them as well. Faults that split a ring main into two radials can cause fires so it can't be stressed enough that testing is an essential part of the job.
With power off the insulation resistance needs checking we use a special meter that uses 500v to complete this test. Also the resistance of the ring is measure normally with same meter but this time set to low ohm range and with at least 200ma being sent down the circuit. Using these reading combined with the declared earth loop impedance reading we work out if the circuit is safe to switch on. If it passes and is switched on we double check readings with a earth loop impedance tester and also test the RCD with a RCD tester which measures the time as well as current and ensures it will trip out within the required time.
These meters cost about £750 and even to hire are likely around the £80.
The DIY person can do a cut down version of the tests with a multimeter and a plug in tester like this
but even so it will still need a layout of around £65 to buy the test equipment and although it may show you that there is a fault it's not a magic wand you still have to be able to use it.
What you need to ask yourself is it worth buying test kit and hoping you can work out how to use it? Or should you get an electrician to sort it out?
The fact that you have got the problem in first place I would think you are unlikely to cure it yourself and it would be better to get an electrician.
When fitting sockets especially with ring mains it is very important to test them as well. Faults that split a ring main into two radials can cause fires so it can't be stressed enough that testing is an essential part of the job.
With power off the insulation resistance needs checking we use a special meter that uses 500v to complete this test. Also the resistance of the ring is measure normally with same meter but this time set to low ohm range and with at least 200ma being sent down the circuit. Using these reading combined with the declared earth loop impedance reading we work out if the circuit is safe to switch on. If it passes and is switched on we double check readings with a earth loop impedance tester and also test the RCD with a RCD tester which measures the time as well as current and ensures it will trip out within the required time.
These meters cost about £750 and even to hire are likely around the £80.
The DIY person can do a cut down version of the tests with a multimeter and a plug in tester like this
but even so it will still need a layout of around £65 to buy the test equipment and although it may show you that there is a fault it's not a magic wand you still have to be able to use it.What you need to ask yourself is it worth buying test kit and hoping you can work out how to use it? Or should you get an electrician to sort it out?
The fact that you have got the problem in first place I would think you are unlikely to cure it yourself and it would be better to get an electrician.
is it safe to keep electricity supply on
Are you saying you did a load of new wiring or simply changed the accessory faceplates? if the latter, go back to every one you did and check all the wires are totally secure in their terminals with no excess copper showing (and no insulation under the screw), all earths are properly sleeved and connected, no wires are squashed and there is no possibility that a wire could get trapped or squashed by the frontplate screws.
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I just put on new face plates, should I just check upstairs as it is only n upstairs x2 rooms I changed, the ones downstairs are working fine, also it's only trip switch stating upstairs socktes which have tripped ....and lastly is it ok to use other sockets downstairs and is main elec supply ok to have on...am too scared to sleep as new house and no smoke alarms ...amny thanksx
I just put on new face plates, should I just check upstairs as it is only the upstairs x2 rooms I changed, the ones downstairs are working fine, and I did not change any in the kitchen although 9/10 in there are not working now... also it's only trip switch stating upstairs socktes which have tripped ....and lastly is it ok to use other sockets downstairs and is main elec supply ok to have on...am too scared to sleep as new house and no smoke alarms ...many thanksx
By the sound of things you want to be checking all the accessories you changed because tbh it doesn't sound like you've done a great job - no offence intended! (if not tonight then tomorrow)
Are you saying you didn't touch the kitchen sockets at all? It sounds like the kitchen sockets were added as an extension of the upstairs ones and the CU is labelled wrongly, if you only find one fault and the breaker has B32 on it then it could be a spur which is bad news for 9 sockets in a kitchen. (if it says B16 it's still bad news because this is not generally good enough for 9 sockets in a kitchen).
Don't forget to turn off before you undo accessory screws and as well as what i said in the earlier post, make sure all wires are in the correct terminals.
Also use the right size screwdriver and make sure the terminal screws are TIGHT.
The 'thanks' button is at the top right of the post!
Are you saying you didn't touch the kitchen sockets at all? It sounds like the kitchen sockets were added as an extension of the upstairs ones and the CU is labelled wrongly, if you only find one fault and the breaker has B32 on it then it could be a spur which is bad news for 9 sockets in a kitchen. (if it says B16 it's still bad news because this is not generally good enough for 9 sockets in a kitchen).
Don't forget to turn off before you undo accessory screws and as well as what i said in the earlier post, make sure all wires are in the correct terminals.
Also use the right size screwdriver and make sure the terminal screws are TIGHT.
The 'thanks' button is at the top right of the post!
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But realistically you should be safe as long as you leave the MCB for the faulty circuit OFF (or 'trip switch' as you incorrectly keep calling it)
What does the MCB say on it? "B32"?
What does the MCB say on it? "B32"?
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