Test meter recommendation
- Thread starter Handyman
- Start date
Sponsored Links
B
breezer
I would opt for the best you can afford, i would suggest digital, as analogue as not as common as digital, and also digital can have "auto ranging"
in my opinion the best is Fluke, but for what your requiremnts are you should look at other brands
in my opinion the best is Fluke, but for what your requiremnts are you should look at other brands
By "best", I hope you don't mean "lots of functions which I'll rarely use", or "extreme accuracy and therefore most expensive". I'm looking for a low cost, basic model, which will adequately handle testing of domestic installations, on an occasional basis. Looking in catalogues, I see similar types of test meter, but prices ranging for £20 to £200, and I can't really see the need for the ultimate accuracy and vast range of scales offered by a £200 model. On the face of it, the TLC model TM M3800 seems as good as anything, at £19.95. See this
Whilst digital meters might be auto-ranging, I'm not sure that I need this, because in domestic situations (as far as my limited experience suggests), you usually want to see if 240v is there or not, rather that measure its actual value. Analogue types make it easier to see changing values (e.g. resistance decays) or see how much over or under a specific value a reading might be.
Whilst digital meters might be auto-ranging, I'm not sure that I need this, because in domestic situations (as far as my limited experience suggests), you usually want to see if 240v is there or not, rather that measure its actual value. Analogue types make it easier to see changing values (e.g. resistance decays) or see how much over or under a specific value a reading might be.
What autoranging means is that the day you forget that you last used it on a resistance setting to check a fuse, or set to 2V DC to check a battery, and then you stick the probes into a ring main socket, it doesn't go
B A N G ! !
B A N G ! !
Sponsored Links
First off - hello 
just found the forum...
Are you talking about a mulitimeter or 16th edition test equipment?
Different things entirely....
Multimeter - in my opinion fluke every time, but you may want to bear robin in mind(slightly cheaper)
16th edition test - i use AVO lcb2500/2 and bmm2500 - excellent but expensive, as is most 16th test equipment.
Hopefully thats of some use,
Ed
just found the forum...Are you talking about a mulitimeter or 16th edition test equipment?
Different things entirely....
Multimeter - in my opinion fluke every time, but you may want to bear robin in mind(slightly cheaper)
16th edition test - i use AVO lcb2500/2 and bmm2500 - excellent but expensive, as is most 16th test equipment.
Hopefully thats of some use,
Ed
- Joined
- 11 Jan 2004
- Messages
- 42,737
- Reaction score
- 2,633
- Country
Are not Fluke & Robin one and the same now??
Yup - same company, have been for a while.
And I always thought their 16th testers were the bees knees too....
And I always thought their 16th testers were the bees knees too....
- Joined
- 11 Jan 2004
- Messages
- 42,737
- Reaction score
- 2,633
- Country
Hi everybody
Thought I'd tack on to this discussn...Been reading a lot about the dreaded part P in PE (trade mag) Sposed to come into force on October 1st. Either you become "a competent person" or you have to get your work checked by one. Is this before it is connected to the supply? How are NIC sparks and other competent persons going to cope with the huge influx of requests to check work prior to connection? And how does the Govt. expect sparks to go thro' the "competent persons" training/ evaluation/whatever before October? The whole lot is a bit of a mish-mash.
Anyway, on to the crux of my post: With part p in mind, I am looking to update my somewhat well-used test equipment. Do I go for separate units of an all-in-one?
As peeps have said, all-in-ones are pricey. Fluke/Robin is my preferred brand. And, where will I find the biggest discount off this brand? WF are not a great discounter, despite F/R being their main stock item.
Thought I'd tack on to this discussn...Been reading a lot about the dreaded part P in PE (trade mag) Sposed to come into force on October 1st. Either you become "a competent person" or you have to get your work checked by one. Is this before it is connected to the supply? How are NIC sparks and other competent persons going to cope with the huge influx of requests to check work prior to connection? And how does the Govt. expect sparks to go thro' the "competent persons" training/ evaluation/whatever before October? The whole lot is a bit of a mish-mash.
Anyway, on to the crux of my post: With part p in mind, I am looking to update my somewhat well-used test equipment. Do I go for separate units of an all-in-one?
As peeps have said, all-in-ones are pricey. Fluke/Robin is my preferred brand. And, where will I find the biggest discount off this brand? WF are not a great discounter, despite F/R being their main stock item.
B
Big_Spark
One thing you should take into account is Fused Test Leads. If you are going to use any meter on mains voltage, then you should ensure it has fused leads.
This is a requirement for Electricians, for your occasional use it may not seem important, but it will save you buying a new meter if it all ends in tears.
One question...Do you want the meter to actually tell you the voltage or indicate what voltage is there? That may sound like the same thing..and reading it back it does even more!!
Seriously, you may be better off buying something like a Fluke T3 or T5 Voltage tester. These cost from £34 to £60 depending on were you buy it and the exact model.
These are voltage testers that use LEDs to indicate the voltage present, and they have fused leads fitted to them. They are designed for Electricians and related Engineers, very good quality and value for money.
This is a requirement for Electricians, for your occasional use it may not seem important, but it will save you buying a new meter if it all ends in tears.
One question...Do you want the meter to actually tell you the voltage or indicate what voltage is there? That may sound like the same thing..and reading it back it does even more!!
Seriously, you may be better off buying something like a Fluke T3 or T5 Voltage tester. These cost from £34 to £60 depending on were you buy it and the exact model.
These are voltage testers that use LEDs to indicate the voltage present, and they have fused leads fitted to them. They are designed for Electricians and related Engineers, very good quality and value for money.
B
Big_Spark
securespark said:
Go for an All in One from Robin, it may seem expensive, but when you look at the tests they do, then cost the individual instruments to perform these tests, they are cheaper.
Further, the Robin ones come with software to produce certificates and a are compatible with NICEIC forms should you go that route.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
