Bosch WFO2465GB Problem/s

[number49]

Hi All,

Our bosch WFO2465GB washer has a problem, possibly more than one. When washing it can run for much longer than the programme should (indicator stays on 1 minute for a long time). When we take the clothes out at this stage they are still soapy so it appears to be stuck in the cycle be before the rinse starts or completes.

If we click the dial on to rinse then spin it will rinse and spin normally.

I have checked the drain pump filter and it's clear and the impellor moves freely.

Also, from what I can tell it doesn't heat the water (hard to tell but stopping a 60oC mid-cycle and draining and opeing immediately the towels feel like mains cold temp rather than any warmth).

I have tested the element which gives 25 Ohm and the thermistior which was around 6k Ohm. I have also tested a brand new thermistor (as I have seen much higher values than 6k quoted for normal resistances) but they match and appear correct against a data sheet I found so they don't seem to be the problem.

Anything I can try to further troubleshoot?


Thanks in advance, Mike

 

[jj4091]

Is it the same on all wash programmes? You should feel if the water is heating by touching the the door glass. If you feel competent you could check the element for a supply while it is running.

 

[number49]

Is it the same on all wash programmes? You should feel if the water is heating by touching the the door glass. If you feel competent you could check the element for a supply while it is running.

Thanks JJ.

The glass definitely feels like mains cold water temp no matter what programme we set it on. Interestingly if the delicates wash is used the full cycle completes rather than hanging at 1 minute then needing to be clicked on to rinse and spin.

I would be ok to test the voltage at the element in use it I'm just not 100% on how to get a meter on to its terminals as the terminals are right behind the front panel so needs the panel, lock and door off to access as far as I know. Is there somehwere I can get a wiring diagram for my machine for the control panel to check the outputs to the element at source?

 

[jj4091]

Did you check the connectors on the wires to the element for burning when you did the continuity test? It could be that or a dry joint on the relay board/control panel ( see u-tube ) also I believe the water level switch ( either on the back of the drum or top of the tub assy.) controls the supply to the heating element so check the tube for blockage ( blow down it into the drain pump & you should hear it bubbling) if it's the one on the top of the tub or resistance test if it is on the back of the drum assy..

 

[number49]

Thanks for the info, very much apprecaited! I'll check as soon as I get chance.

Mike

 

[number49]

Progress so far:

1. No signs of burning on heater connections or wires.
2. Have blown down tube for water level switch and seems clear can hear bubbling etc.
3. Have checked continuity on wires between heater terminals: one goes to the level switch and the other onto the back of the control board. Both ok for continuity and resistance shows as 0.4ohm.
4. Have tested voltage at heater terminals during wash cycle and definitely not getting 230v.

Will try and remove control board to inspect joints. Is there anything else worth checking or to look for on the board while it’s off the chassis?

Mike

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

( blow down it into the drain pump & you should hear it bubbling)

If you do the reverse and blow up the pipe to the diaphragm pressure switch, you should hear it click. It should only need the very slightest of pressure to switch it.

If you feel up to delving deeper, take the controlling PCB out, for a close examination for damage on both sides. Look for especially for electrolytic caps which have swelled up, or burst and any obvious signs of burnt contacts. Usually the plugs on the PCB are all different, so you cannot get them wrong, but worth making notes/ taking photos as you progress, just in case.

If you do find any failed caps, replace them with ones of a higher voltage and higher temperature rating, than original, but the same capacity in mfd or uf and note the polarity when fitting. They only cost pennies, but manufacturers tend to pare the cost of components down to the bare minimum, even if they fail after a few years.

 

[number49]

Thanks both for all the help

Think I’ve found the culprit...

Is this type of damage normally due to age or is it likely another component caused the board damage? Just wondering how likely it is to happen again and damage a new board.

Mike

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Difficult to tell in the photos, but it looks as if some tracks have overheated/ been shorted. You might be able to source a replacement good used board from a machine repairer.