I’m replacing the old PIR spotlight with a new one. The new one only has 3 connectors Live / Earth / Neutral but not sure what I’m supposed to do with the LS wire as on the old one? Thanks!
Outdoor spotlight replacement
- Thread starter mazears
- Start date
Put it in a separate connector block
You may have a manual override switch somewhere, or it connects to another light, to either turn that on, on the other light can turn that light on...
If not - as above, just put that in a separate terminal block.
If true, you will need to tap into that black wire, which I see (in your photo) goes straight from the PIR, directly to the light. Connect the black wire, to a separate terminal block, and to what was in the LS terminal.
Yes this is the only spotlight and there’s an isolator switch within the kitchen for it, and another separate switch to manually turn and keep the light on or off if need be. I was just wanting the motion detector to work also, so I’m presuming I need to tap into the black wire as you say. If so do I cut it halfway, and add both ends into a terminal block, along with the LS wire coming out of the cable in the wall?
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This /\
Grey=-neutral
I would put the perm live (brown) in a separate term block. use the switched live (black) as the live feed for the new spot. then you can turn it on and off from the switch and (if the PIR has it) use a pulse over-ride feature.
I would put the perm live (brown) in a separate term block. use the switched live (black) as the live feed for the new spot. then you can turn it on and off from the switch and (if the PIR has it) use a pulse over-ride feature.
It seems not.... Grey is the live, entering the PIR, with a black (SL) going straight from PIR, to the light. Neutral is the pair of blues, one to the PIR, one to the light.
I was referring to the 3-core & E cable that is still connected to the old light. There are no blues there!
Oh, OK - I'm less certain on what has been used on the original fitting, on the right. I would want to check that out, but the OP never asked about that, and so I assumed he knew what was what in there.
The original (at right) as imprinted on its back box, is saying in order left to right as you are seeing it: Live/Earth/Neutral/Switched Live. The new one (at left) imprinted on terminal block as you see it is Live/Earth/Neutral
Yes grey is neutral. So to clarify as you say, I put the original (unit on right) Live (brown) into its own terminal box. Then the original Switched Live (black), into the new Live, earth to earth, and the original Neutral (grey) to the new Neutral, therefore no need to cut anything? So doing this will give me the option of turning the spotlight on/off manually as before (switch in kitchen), but also allow the PIR motion sensors to work as before also?
I’m also not sure what you mean by a pulse over-ride feature, unless that’s a built in feature with the PIR spotlight?
Thanks to you both for your patience, and for any further clarification!
That is a built-in feature, which either fitted, or not. If fitted - turn power off, then immediately back on, then the light stays on, usually until next dawn, when it resets to normal. It basically, avoids the need for your second switch, which bypasses the PIR, to force the light on. Great, if all of your lights support that....
Using the pulse override, you would need to do two operations, to get all your outside lights on, rather than one simple switch on, therefore - cutting into, and connecting to that black, is the better way.
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