This is why I hate wireless alarms, a lazy installation ends up giving a good brand a bad name. All wireless alarms no matter how good will always fail somewhere, 10 years ago there was no choice, all cables were hidden therefore giving the appearance of being wireless and very little went wrong...
26 - because the bells will only ring upon a “confirmed alarm”. Meaning bells will only sound after a 2nd defector has tripped.
27 - because you’ll only get internal sounders upon a “confirmed alarm”.
Put everything in area A and make sure you give the area a name in “area text” call it...
I assume the barn expander is area B and AC fail alerts are prog for area A only. If you have engineer access go to area options and enable area B on AC mains fail. This will give you an alert on house keypad. No need to upgrade the PSU.
This is such a common post, connecting a delta bell to a Texecom panel. Why is the delta bell so popular, it’s crap. Surely using a Texecom bell with a Texecom panel is better. An immulinated Odyssey X is 100 times better than the delta bell.
It’s the data (RS485) to the front keypad, this is all pointing to a faulty control panel.
Case Tamper would display “Case Tamper 100”
Siren Tamper would display “SAB Tamper 100”
I think it may be the onboard keypad which starts at device 00 further keypads are addressed as 01, 02 & so on. A way to prove it is to go into Assign Keypads/readers and give a name to device 0 (onboard keypad) give it a name and if that name pops up along with the usual fault then you can be...
The link is for adding wireless devices, I assume your issue is with the app connection. If all your wireless devices are clearing in walk test I would leave this and focus on the SmartCom setup. Press and hold Wi-Fi button and pair your phone with the SmartCom again, add your router password...