Recent content by Alec_t

Drink enough and you'll lose all interest in checking on energy use :giggle:

For non-porous driveways above some minimal size don't you need planning consent these days?

Shutting that off abruptly will cause a pressure pulse to travel around the house pipework, which could trigger water-hammer effects in the toilet cistern.

The toilet fill valve shutting off abruptly can cause water hammer which results in a continuing vibration due to ripples on the water surface in the cistern. I had this happen in a previous house and cured it by attaching a submerged small bottle of water to the ball-valve float arm to provide...

The two left-most pipes look like the H&C feeds to the tap. Each has its own isolator valve (operated by rotating the screwdriver slot 90 degrees)

Is there a removable circlip?

In that case you need a plumber. It's most likely just the cartridge which needs servicing or replacing (if you can source a matching one), but a plumber would probably want to replace the whole tap!

Post a pic of the tap.

Bear in mind that, even with insulation and boarding, the loft might be uncomfortably hot in summer and uncomfortably cold in winter.

Is the load balanced? Unbalanced loads (e.g. just a few items, or one bulky item) will cause vibration during the spin cycle.

Perhaps to enable use of a 3-prong metal tool if the plastic key isn't man enough for the job?

Jet-wash? Did you see this thread?

That diaphragm looks similar to commonly available ones. You might be lucky in finding a third-party one which fits. Failing that, I'd be making some sort of alternate support for a readily-available type of side-entry fill valve.

Dismantle the switch and check/service its contacts.

For aesthetic reasons a perfect-fit disk is appropriate, but if aesthetics aren't a concern then your approximate-fit disk would be fine when glued in.