Recent content by Alex H

Thank you, that's put me on the right path. I've got some 180mm m8 coach bolts to do the connection between the column head and beam, using the steel plates on each side. I was a bit stuck on finding a fitting to go through the 150mm sq column and into the blockwork, so thanks. Timber...

Concrete, solid block, 2 skin and no cavity. Pretty dam hard from 1930.

Hi, I'm in need of finding some fixings to secure a 150mm square wooden column to a block wall. Anyone have any recommendations? Also, at the top of the column above I want to join it to a wooden beam, I've had some steel plates made up with 8mm pre drilled holes, I'm looking for some...

I'll probably use something like that. My current thinking is wycamol slim membrane (3mm dimples) so wall can breathe if moisture is trapped. On external walls ill 50mm timber and insulated plasterboard onto the membrane. On internal walls I'll scrap the timber and dot/dab direct onto the...

Hi, I have a single skin concrete block extension with cement render. The walls appear to have had a number of various coats of lime render, gypsum and then finally fully tiled. There was no ventilation and mosture has been trapped in the mixture of coatings above. I'm taking it back to...

Well, if anyone was interested I've found the source of water in 4 areas in the house and worked out how to solve most of those. Firstly, that wet column has a gutter pointing at it with no end cap. It's soping wet and internally it's been plastered over in the past with gypsum over the lime...

I'm down again on Friday. I'll take some pictures. I'm thinking a lean to and removing water getting anywhere near it would remove the source of water, then I can open it up and let it dry. Thanks

Also, as per the photos I have a wet internal column. I was expecting to see concrete block with mortar joints, but I can't see any mortar joints... Anyone seen this construction befire?

Photos: https://imgur.com/gallery/Vld7A Hi, we purchased a new house and we knew it would have some issues. 1930 concrete block 215mm thick with render construction. Timber suspended floors on concrete piers in a sub floor. There is a cracked concrete path that runs down the side of the...

Thank you for the link, that's cheaper than I imagined and makes ordering a doddle with the edge conditions.

I think I'm realising it's probably best to replace that section. I might wait until I've got a few days off in better weather. What's a good, cost effective solution for a Diy'er? With the sheets being bonded with something on one side and cement bound, hopefully makes them less dangerous...

So single size filter material. If I'm doing that I'll drop a permable pipe in too and outlet it at the front. Cheers all, good to feel positive. I've turned one house round before and I'm not scared of hard graft. I have learnt hat good tools and the correct materials are a must.

Thank you. I might struggle getting it that low without having to build a wall to retain the path on the opposite side. I'll excavate the path and see how I go. Not heard of dry rods, so I'll have a look at those. All the impermeable paint etc is just stifling the block work. Yes, sadly...

I might just take down all the posts and start with one combined post, all my photos are in one album anyway. I'd not spotted the failed section by the window. I had to Google 'torching' so I'm staying with the conversation :) ( I thought you had referred to the flatter extended roof section)...

I will be refitting a new kitchen, I just wanted to ensure its all ok outside before I started work inside. Looks like there is a velux size that's not far off for replacing that roof light. Thanks