Recent content by allex50

OK, I'll give up and leave as is to avoid introducing problems.

I have used radiator backing to semi-insulate the side walls to a DG window as they are open cavity construction. I have not taken the backing around the corner onto the wall proper so I need to 'stick' something on the corner to protect the soft edge of the backing. I intend to emulsion the...

Great, thanks. I will proceed with those ideas but still may look for a screw at distances of about 1m just to be sure. What is the best grab stuff for this job?

Soffit is 10mm so I need a fixing screw which will drill through both and secure itself to a 4 - 5mm hard old soffit which will no accept a screw w/o breaking up. Note the facia is already UPVC and there is 18mm gap to insert the new soffit in but I need to fix the soffit at the wall side which...

One last thought, with the angled type valve have the connectors swapped so tat the thermostat head is horizontal and not sticking up towards the ceiling? And still work!?

Don.t want to drain the system but I need to undo the nut on the elbow comp. then put my thumb over the pipe before I swap in the valve. I assume the thread on the exist. will be the same. Is this true? Will this quick swap method work w/o too much spillage?

I have a rad in a small bedroom which at sometime has been changed to a longer one and one pipe extended by a compression elbow. I want to get rid of this unsightly bodge and renew the rad at the same time. To keep the rad at about 1 - 1.2m wide (single leaf to keep width down) I am wondering if...

AH, OK. As I want to slip in an eaves protector 1.5m wide and probably an extra piece of 'felt' to ensure water gets to the protector and into the gutter I need to lift 5 or 6 at once but do not want to break any. Maybe better to push the tiles above up a bit and then remove the 1st row tiles...

Ah, I think if I get two of those tile lifters or 1m long building straps I could maybe lift a few tiles at once by propping them up. Repet that and I might be able to get the whole row lifted but I'd need to remove the end ones first. Although would it be easier if I removed all the facias with...

I want to retro-fit these to an existing Marley concrete tile roof. The facia is UPVC mailed onto the old wood facia. The section of roof is mortared at the ends so I've got to somehow remove those 1st row eaves side tiles. What is the best way to approach this problem? 1 Push up the second row...

I have run a 2.5mm radial under my floor from CU area to kitchen. So far I have let it rest loose unclipped on the concrete block wall pillars which support the floor, so not dangling on the floor. Ends taken up through the floor adjacent to the walls either end ready for connection (2.9Kw...

Got it thanks, bought a pair today so problem over. We have a small kitchen so I build extra draws under each cabinet to get more space for little used things.

I have an internal draw in my Goodhome tall cabinet and have fitted soft-close hinges to the door but the draw will not open now because the door when it is open protrudes into the open space by some 10mm (half the door thickness). Is there a soft-close hinge which pushes the door out so it at...

Thanks all, I'll dig the cable back out and up the wall a bit so that it aligns with the back of the new built-in unit which is a BEKO cooker requiring a 16A supply so the existing trip will need downrating a bit.

6mm cable sticking out of the wall needs terminating for the cable (H05BN4-F or H07RN-F)) from the cooker (Cooker isolator already in place). Does anyone sell the full WAGO kit I need? It seems one needs to select all the separate parts. Also need to crimp the 6mm wires? Can't see them on...