Recent content by allex50

AH, OK. As I want to slip in an eaves protector 1.5m wide and probably an extra piece of 'felt' to ensure water gets to the protector and into the gutter I need to lift 5 or 6 at once but do not want to break any. Maybe better to push the tiles above up a bit and then remove the 1st row tiles...

Ah, I think if I get two of those tile lifters or 1m long building straps I could maybe lift a few tiles at once by propping them up. Repet that and I might be able to get the whole row lifted but I'd need to remove the end ones first. Although would it be easier if I removed all the facias with...

I want to retro-fit these to an existing Marley concrete tile roof. The facia is UPVC mailed onto the old wood facia. The section of roof is mortared at the ends so I've got to somehow remove those 1st row eaves side tiles. What is the best way to approach this problem? 1 Push up the second row...

I have run a 2.5mm radial under my floor from CU area to kitchen. So far I have let it rest loose unclipped on the concrete block wall pillars which support the floor, so not dangling on the floor. Ends taken up through the floor adjacent to the walls either end ready for connection (2.9Kw...

Got it thanks, bought a pair today so problem over. We have a small kitchen so I build extra draws under each cabinet to get more space for little used things.

I have an internal draw in my Goodhome tall cabinet and have fitted soft-close hinges to the door but the draw will not open now because the door when it is open protrudes into the open space by some 10mm (half the door thickness). Is there a soft-close hinge which pushes the door out so it at...

Thanks all, I'll dig the cable back out and up the wall a bit so that it aligns with the back of the new built-in unit which is a BEKO cooker requiring a 16A supply so the existing trip will need downrating a bit.

6mm cable sticking out of the wall needs terminating for the cable (H05BN4-F or H07RN-F)) from the cooker (Cooker isolator already in place). Does anyone sell the full WAGO kit I need? It seems one needs to select all the separate parts. Also need to crimp the 6mm wires? Can't see them on...

Ah! Thanks. "What's that flapping noise dear?"

Thanks, they are quite heavy and the end ones are cemented and do not want to disturb them. Hoping to slide any 'tray' in to the end.

I have a 1970s concrete tile roof Marly flat concrete version. I am sure there is no felt eaves support 'tray'. Because the tiles are flat and therefore lay flat on the facia, I'm guessing I do not need a bird trap? Just the basic protector style. B&Q sell them but any suggestions for a reliable...

Yes, we can fit the hob in the space above the draw. Looking at the ElectriQ eiQC60Kv3 hob. Only problem I see is the Cooker switch unit will be at the back of the hob so wonder if it has to be moved to make it more accessible in an emergency. Do the rules state this or can I leave it there...

We are all electric.

We are older and need an eye level oven but being little workspace have no idea how to accommodate the hob. Currently we have a stand-alone oven hob but the space could take a full height cabinet for the oven. Ideas welcome.

Yep, good idea. Will last for my purposes but long pieces may be awkward to fit. Do they still make the original stuff and what's it called?