Recent content by ASB1960

MeldrewsMate, I replaced the circulation pump, the old one was getting very hot and was noisy and 15 years old. This improved things a little bit. After much fiddling I discovered that the valves seem to be very sensitive to how the lockshield is adjusted. With the lockshields open and heads...

That will be a job for tomorrow. I will report back. The hot water is off. There is a motorised valve on the circuit and this is closed. There is a motorised valve also on the heating circuit and this is open. There is no cold rank. Its a pressurised system. The pressure vessel shows 1.9 bar.

I installed the rads in the summer. I used the lockshield and the trv the same way round as the original "normal" rads. I didn't do anything other than a quick test at the time. No balancing (then). The new radiators got warm (not particularly hot) but this one was cooler. Previously the...

I have a rad which I can can't get hot. It's a reina rad with a reina TRV. (Its a full height vertical rad and the TRV is vertical). If I remove the head the pin can be pressed down and springs up. When UP there appears to be no flow. As I press the pin - with heating and pump on I can hear...

It does yes (when the power is on of course).

I don't believe so. That would be very difficult with the location of the conductor, especially for the second switch. But it is certainly a bit cramped in the back box. The power is all off anyway so will have a very close look when I take the plate off for the splashback fitting.

I was trying to figure what on earth it might have been. Seemed odd that sumply screwing the switch panels into the back box could have caused some sort of short. Perhaps they were overtightened and this was the cause.

I removed the grid switch 4 way with individual fuses below for drywalling and kitchen installation. It was replaced yesterday. On turning on the dishwasher switch (nothing connected at the socket) the fuse blew with a bang and flash and tripped the mcb. (Twice). I removed the faceplate and...

It just so happened that I was able to straddle the cable. No rail required. Thanks for all the helpful suggestions

Foxhole, You highlight a point I was mulling over. The previous wall cabinets were plugged with blue plugs (and some others). The base units were secured with 60mm screws straight in the thermalite. So I should go straight for 150 screws into the therkalite blocks to secure the wall cabinets...

I have found a number of variations on this problem. Here is mine as I have failed to find an answer. I am installing 2 units. One 350 mm and one 300 mm on a wall. The wall is 785 from the corner to the window. The board is dot and dab onto thermalite blocks. The first 130 mm is mainly 5...