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Kitchen Cabinet - cables in the way.

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by ASB1960, 18 Jun 2021.

  1. ASB1960

    ASB1960

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    I have found a number of variations on this problem. Here is mine as I have failed to find an answer.

    I am installing 2 units. One 350 mm and one 300 mm on a wall. The wall is 785 from the corner to the window.

    The board is dot and dab onto thermalite blocks.

    The first 130 mm is mainly 5 cables I was unable to get moved.

    There is a gap in the cables of approx 35mm.

    My plan is:-

    a) Cut out a little of the board to see if the hanging bracket can straddle the last cable where the gap is. (I am due some luck).

    b) Something else.

    I think these should be ok ?

    https://www.locksonline.com/Cabinet-Hanger-Wall-Rail-2032mm-Long-6492.html

    But what plugs to use.

    The cabinets are wren infinity. (Big sticker saying must be screwed to wall through corner brackets). I guess I might need different hanging brackets if I have to use a rail.
     
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  3. JohnD

    JohnD

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    I have been very pleased with the long hanging rail. It is very strong, rigid and level, if properly fitted.

    It will bridge over any bits where you can't put in an adequate screw, e,g, buried pipes or cables, mortar joints, crumbly brick. You can slide them behind surface pipes or cable (may have to loosen or reposition clamps)

    In a foamed block wall, I'd use a 35mm or longer screw, but drill the wall for your plugs, clean out dust and grit with a vac or water jet, inject no-more-nails or equivalent own-brand, starting with the nozzle right at the back of the hole so there is no air bubble, press in the plug, clean off excess, leave to set overnight before screwing on the rail, preferably right at each end

    I used 50mm screws which might be a bit excessive, but are no more effort to fit, and screws at about 300mm intervals with one close to each hanging point, and one within 50mm of each cut end of the rail.

    Edit - you say you have dot and dab, so drill, plug and screw at least 50mm into the block behind, disregard the airspace and plasterboard which have no strength. The rail will prevent your screws pulling through the plasterboard. I would use 4mm or greater screws as they will need shear strength. The rail holes will take up to 6mm round-head.

    If you want you can cut the rails to a precise fit inside the cabinets, but for a wall run, I find it easier to notch the cabs so they pass over the rail.

    You can paint the rail before fixing, to match the wall, and again afterwards to blend in the screw heads.

    If you subsequently want to move the cabs it is easy, just lift off and reposition or swap round.

    I use the adjustable metal hangers, they screw into the side panel but are a tight fit to the top board. I have only seen plastic-bodied hangers recently.
     
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  4. foxhole

    foxhole

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    Thermalite blocks don’t hold plugs , use 150mm screws straight in, as many as you can .
     
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  5. ASB1960

    ASB1960

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    Foxhole,

    You highlight a point I was mulling over.

    The previous wall cabinets were plugged with blue plugs (and some others). The base units were secured with 60mm screws straight in the thermalite.

    So I should go straight for 150 screws into the therkalite blocks to secure the wall cabinets. Either for cabinet or rail. Presumably with a 2mm pilot hole ?

    That neatly leads me to the other wall. This is concrete block and was 100 mm grey plugs. Repeating this was my plan.
     
  6. foxhole

    foxhole

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  8. charliegolf

    charliegolf

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  9. foxhole

    foxhole

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  10. charliegolf

    charliegolf

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    Understood, but whilst I posted M6, you can get very slim ones. I thought they might pull up tight without cracking the block.
     
  11. foxhole

    foxhole

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    They never tighten in thermalite in just get crushed by the bolt.
     
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  12. ASB1960

    ASB1960

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    It just so happened that I was able to straddle the cable. No rail required.

    Thanks for all the helpful suggestions
     
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