kitchen cabinet hanging

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Hi guys and gals.
Im hanging some b&q cabinets in kitchen onto a stud partition plasterboard wall.

The old ones were installed with redi drivers . The new ones wont be no a stud. (recipe for disaster)I was thinking of one of these 3 ways .

1) use grip it plasterboard fittings. But think they would hit each other as would be close together. ( I also have redi drivers (silver metal spyro fastners with screws)

2) a cabinet hanging rail from amazon .

3) cut the 9.5mm plaster board back to studs and insert long piece of 9mm ply wood and fasten the hooks to them .

What (if any ) method would you use .
The units are a 300 , 625 corner and a 600.
 
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just locate the studs cut a section of plaster back to stud and put some decent bracing in of a similar size to studs, screwed to studs, where the brackets are going, then put the cut plasterboard back with screws and patch. bit of sand paper and paint and you know it won't ever fail.
 
I can't see it on your link, but if you mean the steel hanging rail that comes in 2-metre lengths, it is excellent. You can screw it firmly to each stud without needing to hack the plaster about, and if you choose to move your cabinets later, or fit different ones, there is no need to change the fixing point. It has plenty of screw-holes so you are pretty sure to be able to put a screw at every stud.

It is slightly Z-shaped so the adjustable cabinet hangers hook onto it. You can paint it to blend in with the wall (preferably before fitting). You may like to add washers under the screw-heads.

s-l400.jpg
 
I would install the ply but with timber behind as well spanning the studs. You can then secure easily.If you use the metal rail you will have to cut the rear of the cup'd to allow it to run thru or have the units sitting just off the wall.
 
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The easiest way would be the rail. But can only see it in small lengths from amazon. As long as its ok with going onto overhanging the end studs. The studs are wood. Any ware else sell it
 
either method 2) or 3), with 2) being my preferred option if using rail you will need to notch the backs of the intermediate cabinet. Too be honest I use that all the time now, whether on partition or solid walls, easy levelling and don't have the issues you mention of drilling holes close together
 
Thanks guys im looking at some on ebay . They don't say thickness though.

Im going to extend it to the joist before the cabinet. ( will be covered by tall housing). But at end near corner their is no stud. So will use a redi driver ,
I think the 3 joist before it should hold it up.
Its a run of 925 . Ending with corner unit.
 
I would have estimated the thickness at 2mm, but I expect the dimensions shown by this vendor are typical. I don't think it's quite the same shape as mine but I'm not climbing up to look.

I think it is especially important to screw the end of the rail, give or take 50mm, to prevent it bending out or twisting. If it is held flat its shape is very stiff against downward loads. It is up near the ceiling, so if painted to blend in it will not be visually obtrusive if it extends beyond the cab. The longer the rail, the better you can screw it

For a corner unit you can presumably fix to the other wall in the corner.

s-l400.jpg

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hanging-R...509768?hash=item1eb4184ac8:g:eKwAAOSwYmZXMGp2
 
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Thanks johnd. The joist in corner is further down from end of wall so cant get to it . So will use the drill driver twist bits to take it.
The cabinet will also hang on the other wall so should be secure
 
I used the cabinet hanging rail a while ago to get around issues of trying to do anything with a lath and plaster wall and it is excellent, makes hanging wall units an absolute breeze.

As said either notch the back of the units where it passes through or live with the gap. In my case the gap was only visible where the units stopped above the hob. Tiles hid the gap at eye level, only the bit above the extractor was visible and even then it wasn't that bad.
 
mine are notched, but without that the gap would be 6mm at the top tapering to zero at the bottom, and only visible at the end of a run. I might be tempted to omit the notch.
 

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