noseall
Last Activity:
23 Apr 2017 at 12:43 PM
Joined:
2 Feb 2006
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25,738
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1,656
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Gender:
Male
Birthday:
10 Aug 1966 (Age: 50)
Location:
Staffordshire
Occupation:
builder

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noseall

Male, 50, from Staffordshire

We are only small bud and staffed ok at the mo. Things can change though. Nice of you to put yourself forward. Good luck in the future. 31 Jan 2016

noseall was last seen:
23 Apr 2017 at 12:43 PM
    1. Callismichael
      Callismichael
      Thanks for responding noseall. As I have a slab foundation and not brickwork to remove how would be best filling the cavity without risk of damp as using a closer would be difficult as I have no lips of brick to rest this on and that slab is absolutely solid?
      1. noseall
        noseall
        Line it with insulation and DPM then fill with concrete.
        23 Jan 2017
    2. mcghie3
      mcghie3
      Hi nose all are you a skier of boarder wish I was off to the Alps but struggling to finish loft and gf extension
      Mcghie3 in Morden
      1. noseall
        noseall
        Off to Morzine skiing next week.
        20 Jan 2017
    3. mcghie3
      mcghie3
      Can you help me find the right screws for hanging roof tiles I have tried gold scres fro Toostation but they break easily and rust cos I had to take the down twice and the heads cae off!
      1. noseall
        noseall
        Use 40mm galvanized or stainless clouts.
        20 Jan 2017
    4. Callismichael
      Callismichael
      Hi noseall

      Sorry to trouble you I have seen your posts regarding cavities below doors. Do I need to line the cavity with Dpm or when you say to take inner course of bricks out is this so that you would lie the Dpm over the removed bricks (in my case slab) and over the cavity to get a stronger concrete bridge? Sorry this is all new to my I'm more visual.

      Thank you in advance

      Michael
      1. noseall
        noseall
        Basically yes. Most of my posts are regarding the finishing detail based upon new extensions where the inner leaf masonry is still visible above the floor slab.
        There are many variables - i.e. some builders trim out the inner leaf masonry at the below DPC setting out stage so there is no masonry to remove prior to screeding.
        12 Jan 2017
    5. BLT2016
      BLT2016
    6. Will..
      Will..
      No worries. Cheers for the reply!
    7. noseall
      noseall
      We are only small bud and staffed ok at the mo. Things can change though. Nice of you to put yourself forward. Good luck in the future.
    8. Will..
      Will..
      HI noseall,
      Do you have an email address that I could send some more info about myself? I have a couple more weeks finishing off a current job then I'd be free if I'm suitable for you. You're more than welcome to tell me no if you don't think I'd be right for your business.
      Thanks, WIll
    9. Ady88
      Ady88
      Hi, I wanted to thank you for your advice on my subfloor install. I have submitted the building notice now and just needed some advice with BC. Should I call BC and mention I will be using M12 sleeve anchors at 600mm staggered to bolt the timber wall plate and ask them if they approve it? Ady
    10. gnigdave
      gnigdave
    11. jakepaul
      jakepaul
      posted on 2 feb2013 about tile hanging gable end
      could you tell me what the tiles were in your picture
    12. MattyKHZ
      MattyKHZ
      Hi.

      I noticed your comments on 2 single to 1 double door garage conversions and I was wondering if this is something you undertake as it is something I am thinking of doing to my house in tamworth?
    13. shoestring
      shoestring
      Hello Noseall! I just read a contribution you made to a posting about retrofitting mild steel L straps to a gable end wall for stability. How would you go about attaching the new strap to the blockwork without going through it? Or do you have to go through it? really appreciate your input if possible. Cheers Steve
    14. osian
      osian
      Hi,

      I've been reading through the forums and i see you're the man to ask on the following problem

      I would really appreciate it if i could get some advice on a floor i want to lay.

      basically i have a 24 sqm floor in a domestic studio space which will be used as a wood workshop, no forklifts or the like!

      It is made up of a 6 inch reinforced slab with dpm seperating it from insulation below.

      The floor is fairly level with about a max 4mm difference over the 4m width, i put this down to footfall over the past 2 yrs, thats how long the slab has been down for.

      I would like to have a smooth finish on top, not a glossy polished finish but just something that is flat and doesn't break up under foot fall.

      I also don't want it to be very thick, ideally between 5-10mm

      I have been advised by manufacturers but not one gives the same answer, sbr in concrete, larsen slc2000, ardex k301.

      I don't want to break the bank but i don't want the floor to crack! any suggestions would be greatly appreciated?
    15. jassdhali
      jassdhali
      I am Wolverhampton, is that to far for you?
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  • About

    Gender:
    Male
    Birthday:
    10 Aug 1966 (Age: 50)
    Location:
    Staffordshire
    Occupation:
    builder
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Interests:
    family, skiing, golf, reading
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