Recent content by AVR2

I'm not sure. This is what it looks like underneath: And the yellow area demonstrates the uneven gap between the tray and the side panel, which I'd never fully clocked before. It's only leaking at the right-hand end, where it's obviously a much wider gap.

Our shower, which appears to have been installed by an enthusiastic DIYer rather than a skilled professional, was leaking from the sealant joint between the side panel and the tray, so I removed all the old sealant (much of which was mouldy) and re-did it a few months ago. It all seemed fine...

I've taken the side panel off the shower tray during resealing, and while on the plus side it's dry under there, I was slightly taken aback by the pile of random wood blocks used to prop up the wall edge of the tray. Fair enough, it's holding the tray up, but is that a normal thing? Shouldn't...

I'm re-sealing the shower put in by a previous owner with more enthusiasm than skill. I know that as a general rule, you shouldn't seal along the interior horizontal seams where the shower frame meets the tray, only the external ones - unless the manufacturer's instructions say otherwise. The...

So you wouldn't recommend trying to remove the existing screw, just get it flush and put a new hole for the new rail? EDIT - I've never drilled tile before - I'm unsure whether these will be porcelain or ceramic. I understand that porcelain tends to be used for wet areas, but who knows what the...

The lower mounting post for the shower head rail has corroded away to a nub and the rail has obviously fallen off the wall. Is this likely to be fixable without needing to replace the whole tile or am I being over-optimistic there? The whole shower was clearly installed on the cheap God knows...

I can't work out how to remove these drawers. They don't want to tilt upwards and I can't find any obvious release catch anywhere. Is it an interference fit and I'm just supposed to pull sharply? Photo shows drawer fully open. EDIT - worked it out about 3 minutes after posting this. There are...

It will have been running at about 8 amps; the plate on the back indicates that the heater drew 2000W and the lamp (for the visual fire effect) 60W, but I replaced the blown incandescent with an LED years ago. Would that really have been on the edge for a 13A socket?

It didn't trip. And for those wondering, the plug pins are definitely sleeved.

Yeah, only just noticed that, I hadn't looked that closely. Any ideas as to what the hell happened?

For the last 4 years or so, we've been regularly using an electric heater given to us by relatives who were decluttering. Not sure how old it is, but it's got a moulded plug (and it was apparently PAT tested before it came to us). About 10 minutes ago, I heard a sudden hissing, spluttering noise...

Sorted now. It was actually the screw, not the thread. I initially bought an M4 thread chaser, which was held properly by the thread, but the screw still didn't work. A new M4 screw, and we're in business.

That just takes me to a "temporarily unavailable" page, unfortunately.

We were gifted a Homcom self-assembly shoe cabinet by a friend and, right at the end of the assembly process - literally when trying to install the final screw - I discovered that the threaded metal insert in the plastic fixing below has stripped and so the screw will not tighten (note that the...

Well that's what I was asking really, wasn't it? What *can* go wrong? I'm genuinely interested to know why it's not recommended to do the job without draining the entire system. Can you go into specifics?