Recent content by Benillsley

It’s now nice and clean (cleaning it caused my current lack of water pressure issue..) so there’s no dead animals and I’ll be fashioning a lid this week.

Why is that? I appreciate it’s not mains supplied but surely everyone would have been told from years ago not to drink upstairs water? Thanks for the suggestions, I’ll give it a go tonight.

So off the back of this I cleaned out the tank on Sunday. I scooped any loose debris out as best I could before draining down the tank via the upstairs taps, scrubbed the tank using a washing up brush and got it to the a stage where I’m happy for us to drink out of it. I untied the ballcock and...

From what I can see it’s the same as I linked only almost double the size (which I don’t need) and black? Another idea was some sort of waterproof sheeting/membrane then a sheet of wood sat on top.

Wow good find! I was stupidly searching Smaglass..

Great, thanks! I was planning on cleaning, flushing/rinsing then making a lid out of corriboard- something like this https://www.wickes.co.uk/Proplex-Translucent-Surface-Protection-Sheet---1-2m-x-1m/p/151157 unless there’s something better/more suitable to make it from?

Hi, I’ve got a pretty manky cold water tank in my loft that I’d like to clean up and fit/make a lid for. But after I started reading about tanks I found out they can sometimes be made of asbestos.. Now I don’t think mine is, it feels like plastic/fibreglass and it bends and flexes with a bit of...

So following the above steps my results were: 1.Yes 2.yes 3.yes 4.yes 5.mid 6.no 8.yes Fortunately I had ordered a new actuator earlier in the week which I’ve just fitted and I have heating again! All working as it should. Huge thanks to everyone for your help especially you @stem, your fool...

Thank you for the comprehensive reply and advice! I’ll test when I’m home tonight and report back. I actually have a new actuator/valve head now too which I can try after carrying out your tests.

Pin 1 (HW off)from the programmer goes to number 8 on the junction box and the grey wire (HW off) from the valve goes to number 7. These are as per the attached wiring diagram. Or am I still missing something?

With only CH turned on the HW off terminal (pin 8 on junction box) is showing 240v sorry for the multiple replies, just trying to cover everyone’s very helpful suggestions!

Just tried this and having both CH and HW on the programmer, turned the cylinder stat right down and the boiler turned off. Also checked the output with only CH on from the Programmer In the junction box and got 240volts

Ive attached images of the programmer wiring, junction box and results of testing the actuator voltages.

Thank you. It’s sounds like, as others have suggested, I have a couple of issues. Firstly with the originally wiring as the motorised valve never goes to H. CH on - valve on M HW on - valve on W Both on - valve on M May have been wired wrong from day dot, we only moved to this house in April...

I’ll post an image when I get home tonight. Thanks everyone for the help so far, I’m keen to get it sorted for my cold pregnant wife ASAP!