Recent content by bremen1874

Thanks. I've looked at clipping the cables individually and found two potential problems... 1. Laying all the cables side by side would take up almost the entire depth of the beam. This would place some of the cables very close to either the downstairs ceiling or the upstairs floor. 2...

Having lifted my landing floor to fix a central heating problem I’ve found that there’s a run of approximately 10 T&E cables that goes along the length of the upstairs landing. The cables are loosely bundled together and supported about once a metre by straps made by nailing short lengths of...

I would do but the layout of the bedroom and cylinder cupboard doors means that there isn't a suitable bit of wall going spare.

Thanks for the info. The immersion is on a dedicated 15A radial. The cylinder cupboard opens onto the landing. Due to the amount of pipe work in the cylinder cupboard the existing isolator and mechanical timer are fitted in awkward positions making the timer difficult to operate. I’d...

My existing immersion heater circuit has two 20A DP switchs, one in the kitchen and another upstairs next to the cylinder. The switch by the cylinder then feeds a mechanical timer with a built in on/off/timer switch. As the switch in the kitchen serves no real purpose will I be able to get it...

Here's my semi-informed opinion. Assuming that the socket you are talking about is already in the shed and the wiring supplying it is all correct then I would suggest the following… Connect from the socket to a switched fused connection unit (FCU) using T&E of the same size that supplies...

Having come across a similar issue with my ongoing renovations here’s what my electrician told me. The only things that need bonding back to the MET are the water and gas mains where they first enter the house. All the incoming metal pipes and anything electrical (lights, shaver point...

I'm going to be installing a chimney type cooker hood in my kitchen. Would it be acceptable to install a single socket or FCU above the hood on the part of the wall covered by the chimney or does it need to have external isolation? The socket or FCU will be part of the kitchen ring with...

I assume that this means that the door isn't a standard size? So I'm either going to have to trim a door to fit the frame, or modify the frame to fit a standard door. Any advice would be much appreciated.

I need to replace the door between my kitchen and attached garage. I've measured it as 1990mm x 804mm. It's a good close fit to the door frame. It doesn't appear match any of the standard metric or imperial sizes I've found listed. Does anyone know if this is a standard size of door...

Thanks for the help.

Thanks. I've got a new 2794 BTU radiator I was bought for another room and never got round to fitting. Hopefully it'll be just about big enough for this job. Ooops, I just re-read the last post and noticed the figure was in kW. That would appear to be 10242 BTU!

I need to replace an existing radiator and I'm trying to get a figure for the required BTU. It’s a bedroom measuring 3m x 4m x 2.3m. The floor is wooden with a heated living room below. The ceiling is below a pitched roof with at least 100mm of insulation. There are two outside walls with an...

Thanks. I think the extra work to get the ducting above the ceiling will be worth it in the long run. Hopefully I won't find a beam in the way. Also, would I correct in assuming that the door between the kitchen and the garage should be fire rated and self closing? The existing door...

Thanks for the input. Would running the ducting above the plasterboard and skim ceiling of the garage be okay?