Recent content by brig001

I diagnosed a problem like this with masking tape and cling film. I taped up the bath overflow then taped a square of cling film over the plug hole so that it was loose and I could tell if it inflated or was sucked flat. Each time the toilet was flushed the cling film went down, and after two...

Question to everybody really, could you put an elbow under the sink and pipe the waste to the back of the cabinet, then another elbow to get vertical and put the trap there? Brian

On our unvented cylinder the thermostat had failed. It unplugged from the end of the immersion heater and was easy to change, but ours doesn’t look like yours. Maybe removing the cover would help As Madrab says above, an electrician could figure it out Brian

The ones we use will cost more than that I think, but we use shielded ethernet cable: https://www.phoenixcontact.com/en-us/products/data-plug-vs-08-rj45-5-qip20-bk-1658008 Brian

We use something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265613508766?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=J1Wn6_hyTkS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=PAZa6vcrQwW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I can find out which ones tomorrow if you like Brian

That Honeywell thermostat comes in two parts: One box goes on the wall and actually does the switching The other box detects the room temperature and sends commands to the first part wirelessly. This runs on batteries and you can put it wherever you like; somewhere in the living room would be a...

You could wire in the Honeywell DT4R where the existing thermostat is. Alternatively, you could locate the other end of the thermostat cables, disconnect them to make the hallway safe, then wire it in there I would wire it in where the existing thermostat is, at least in the first instance as...

Losses are going to be worse for sure, but Cisco are saying: I have no idea where they think the power is going to come from. Cable losses will be higher too as lower volts has to mean higher amps, and it’s a thinner cable Brian

Is anyone using or installing POE lighting? https://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/solutions/enterprise-networks/what-is-poe-lighting.html Looks interesting for commercial, and probably domestic eventually. Installations could look very different in a few years Brian

Thanks all for the responses so far, it's good to see so many good ideas I think we have: trojanhaws - Second fill valve in the cistern - I like this idea because it is in effect a timer so that you would always get x seconds of water from the hot pipe Harry Bloomfield - PIR to start the hot...

I was going to try: https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-pipe-thermostat/2395r but it might take too long to sense the temperature and switch, then there's the delay in the motorised valve... Under the sink, yes I reckon I could get a new pipe to the cistern and join it to the existing pipe by...

That's a good idea, thanks Daveydub Yes, none of these ideas are perfect, and the valve temperature would never match the pipework temperature exactly, but if I can get 90% of the performance of a pumped loop for 10% of the cost, I call that a win - actually if I can 75% for 25%, I'd still be...

No, it appears to be glued - was in when my wife bought the place. Looks nice, but can’t get to anything. Certainly don’t want to risk breaking it If I could, I would try your idea, but I think I’ll have to try a thermal switch and valve unless we get any better ideas Thanks, Brian

I agree, but

Hi Harry, the point of this is to achieve the same without a circulation pump or loop It assumes that you would use the toilet before the sink, and use the cold water in the hot pipe to fill the toilet. Hot water would then be available instantly at the hot tap - hopefully :unsure: Brian