Recent content by cjcoffin

Yes as others have said this is garbage, nothing has been done to increase the load, the fact that more power is now theorectically available has no bearing on it. If there is an earth leakage fault on one of the final circuits or they are a bit marginal then fitting a new consumer unit may make...

Maybe but you haven't suggested one. A fused connection unit concealed behind the appliance itself is not to my mind an acceptable method and the OP himself suggested an outlet plate which would at least avoid the need to keep changing the fuse and the temptation to put a nail in it. Am also...

Assuming it is a dedicated circuit for the hob and cooker protected by the 32A mcb then they should both have outlet plates, and the cables should be 4 sq mm. 2.5 is insufficient as it will be protected against short circuit but not overload even though this is unlikely. Sorry I have no idea...

DNOs are increasingly taking a severe line about electricians pulling their main fuse so he may not want to do it. I fitted an isolator so I didn't have to in future, worth thinking of this while you are at it.

The DNO has I think the power to give the neighbour reasonable notice of a temporary disconnection of his supply which unless he is on the vulnerable customers list he has to accept, this happens to me about once a year for all sorts of reasons e.g. reconfiguring the supply cables in the...

He may be able to tell by looking if he has a looped service as there would be two cables going into the supply head but as @Murdochcat says it might be looped elsewhere. Look on the UKPN web site, they will probably do a visit f.o.c. to upgrade the fuse on the spot if it is possible, most...

A link would be helpful. I doubt it's available from Screwfix as the OP wanted. Conduit, as originally suggested by @ericmark and repeated above. But in practice PVC T & E is widely used. One building inspector said 10m of it was fine provided it was run along the underside of the arris rail...

Flex is not really suitable for exterior use as it is not protected against UV exposure. If you need it to be black then black conduit is the answer as upthread. As others have also said, having cables that enter external boxes from any side except underneath is not going to stay waterproof for...

I have a similar Starbreaker board with an identical 3-module RCD. Busbar in mine goes full width but there were many variants of these boards. Worth taking off the cover to look. If it can't be moved my solution would be to fit 3 new Crabtree rcbos* as a DIY job, then get new EICR from someone...

Useful flow calculator https://heatpumps.co.uk/pressure+flow/simulator.html

Sounds fine to me, good progression. Subject to others' advice on bonding to extg wall. Personally I don't like starter kits, however if you have got to tie modern brick/block sizes into an old wall it may be the only option.

Hard to say. When they fitted our pressurised system they put in 22mm hot and cold for the bath as I was expecting. The supply was an old lead 1/2 in pipe but in the middle of a town the pressure is good and it was OK. I subsequently replaced the 15mm copper CW feed to the tank with 22, and the...

In a word, yes. But as 40% is close to the point of maximum bending moment (which is at mid-span) then it would be even better to put the pipe through a hole in the middle of the joist, 15mm plastic pipe is helpful for this. But many ppl would use 22mm pipe for bath taps.

Yes, I gave up at the point it ceased to be of any value to @Cottsyboy . And that was two pages ago...

Surprised it is a square profile, you do not need as much bending stiffness in the transverse direction so sub-optimal. See here for a somewhat longer and heavier section beam which called for 325 x 440 piers. But still square. My loft conversion people put 2 courses of engineering brick pads...