Recent content by Colh107

Ah yes, that's true. Would you use a 3" brush (for the non-groove at least)? It's an oil-based paint, as I understand it (Dulux Weathershield). If relevant, I'm going to be removing the door and laying it flat to work on. Thanks for the thoughts all.

Just a couple of side doors on the garage, so a mirror finish isn't essential. Not glazed or owt, just t&g with bracing.

Just cos I was thinking it's perhaps quicker (?)

Am about to try, for the first time, roller-applying gloss on an exterior (single) door. I understand the concept of laying off with a dry brush, but I'm pondering a couple of aspects: How soon does the brush become not 'dry' enough and what do you do with it then before continuing? Is it best...

I was about to post a similar question - best way to fill screw heads on exterior door (before gloss finish). You recommend undercoating the screws before filling them? And in my case, I need to rot-treat and fill some edges of the wood. Again, undercoat before filling?

This not very (home) diy but.... I'm in a hobby club which needs 12v batteries charging in the clubhouse for equipment. We've no mains electricity, so use solar panels coupled with solar-suited chargers. With this recent 'nuclear winter' they're not getting charged much so I was wondering about...

Thanks. No, upvc not wanted. Any suggestions for places to get ready made? I'm capable/happy to construct it myself, but could consider ready made.

I'm going to construct a new outbuilding door. It'll be exterior glossed, but I'm wondering if I should use particular wood - kiln dried, pressure treated, whatever. Or just "bog standard"?

I'd like to replace my discoloured white plastic bath panel. It (and the bath & room) are 165cm - but standard sizes seems to be shorter or longer. I've tried googling with the size, but just end up at sites that don't actually do that length. Anyone know of suppliers who would be worth trying?

Just to close this thread off (maybe ref info for others) - it did fit :)

Was hoping to suss it out without unwrapping from poly bag, in case I want to return it. Might have to just take the plunge(r) tho

I've bought a new waste for my kitchen sink. I've not dismantled anything yet, but the OD (across outside of thread) of current fitting seems to be about 46.3mm whereas the new one is about 47.4mm. Is this a case of my old fitting/plumbing being imperial? If so, any thoughts on the easiest...

Yeah, I had also been thinking to change to LED - hadn't yet read up on what's needed for a drop-in replacement ("starter bypass" - thanks)

My drive is ~50's concrete slabs. There's cracks in some, as well as the gaps between them - typically 3-5mm wide, which weeds of course love. I guess a flexible sealant would be best, but is there any particular type/feature to look for amongst the myriad of products around?

The light in my kitchen comes on fine most of the time, but in cold temperatures it will just ping with a "trying to fire" flash every few seconds. I give the end of the starter a tap and it then comes on. When this first occurred a few yrs ago I changed the starter but it didn't improve...