Recent content by CopperCylinderMan

Sorry Tony, it was the reply where the original poster said he wouldnt be pursuing his great idea due to the cost of the heat loss, and that it would be cheaper to waste the water, that made me think he wasnt fitting a secondary return. My point was that while it may be inconvenient to have...

The building regs in Scotland mean that you cannot have a dead leg of more than 12metres without installing a secondary loop - the regs mirror those in England usually so it would be worth checking the local regs in this regard. Its not the time for the water to appear that is important...

If you drained your CH and didnt add inhibitor then the problem is likely to be sludge somewhere in the system - the CH is a mix of Iron/copper/whatever the heat exchanger in the boiler is made from and you WILL get rust if you dont add inhibitor.. you should always re-inhibit your CH system...

Drain it and flush a couple of times and you'll be fine - but I HATE primatic/single feed indirect cylinders - you can drain one that has been working fine for years and then never get it to work right again. If you can convince the householder to change the system, then find some way to fit...

Call me Pedantic, but you have to have a 300mm (12" - 1Foot) drop below the tundish before the first bend. Trust me, I make them, so I know these things :) and yes, a combi is the easy option for an installer - most combis are rated for the (crap) instantaneous hot water service which...

fill a tall glass and watch it clear - if it clears from the bottom up, its air bubbles, if it clears from the top down, its sediment. When you heat and reduce the pressure in mains water very quickly, you can liberate the dissolved air in the water. We get it occassionally in thermal...

Just to confirm what Ollski said - keyt to refilling primatic systems is to fill them slowly.

Just FYI, there is an unvented cylinder, fully approved and suitable for gravity primary circulation.....Its got a 28mm constantly rising coil. The last time I posted a link though, I was accused of advertising! CCM

I do think that the era of a combi boiler being the 'answer to every solution' is over. The HA's and councils went through a stage of fitting nothing but combis, as the install time and cost was significantly cheaper. They now realise that to fulfill their statutory requiements as landlords...

paul - I dont think we are talking about 12 litre vessels here - some of the OSO units are 100-450 Litres. assuming a standard bath - say 120 Litres mixed water, they should work.

Chris is spot on with his description of a potable water expansion vessel. At max expansion, the balloon wont fill the vessel, but it will be close, although you generally oversize the expansion vessel (so you'll never get max expansion) to prevent the pressure from exceeding the safety valve...

Direct - electric only - right now, its more expensive than gas. you will have to size your cylinder bigger, as its most economical to heat the tank overnight (assuming you get off peak rates) and store it till you need it during the day. Indirect - gas or oil boiler (and some electric ones)...

pressure is probably not your problem - your problem will be FLOW RATE. A typical mains pressure shower (eg mire excell) uses 10 litres per minute of 55 deg C water for the HEAD only. A bog standard combi boiler will deliver 10-12 l/min over a 35 degree rise - i.e in winter you might get...

Nope, fraid not MY cylinder has a Pressure reducing valve set 2.1 bar, the safety valve is at 3.5 bar, and the P&T relief at 4/90 deg C. The expansion vessel is sized to keep the max operating pressure at approx 3 bar. There are unvented units out there that operate a 1.5 bar cold fill...

take what I say under the advice that I am BIASED!! I would steer away from an internal bubble-top type unvented -we used to make one, and now dont - we use an external vessel. An internal airbubble WILL dissolve back into the water over time. This means that at some point your expansion...