Recent content by CountryFan

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I don’t know if it would be an issue, but I wouldn’t be doing that. Only because a Neutral could become live through a fault condition

No, just asked in Electrics and plumbing forum, which is against forum rules

Sounds like it may need Rebinding/teach in as they called it. Are you using good quality batteries?

Looks to me like the float is sticking, can you twist it without causing a leak underneath?

Looking at the wiring diagram it's a case of swap the Honeywell for Tado. Red = Live Yellow = switched live Safely terminate the neutral in a connector block unless there's a spare terminal in the Tado. That's all there is to it other than follow the rest of the instructions

This is what I asked

I did read it. What I also saw was a com to no on heating, not on dhw. Probably understand it better than me then. I’m only a gas engineer with limited heating wiring/electrical knowledge

A lot of programmers are only 3A, so why would a relay be needed? Heating systems are fuse rated with 3A too so I’m slightly confused. It’s a Y plan, so should be Tado - MV - Pump and boiler switch live, so still confused as to why it would be the pump drawing too much load

Not sure if this helps? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Finder-133182304300PAS-Built-Switches-250-VAC1/dp/B00RBYS9BA

No I don’t believe your sensor is faulty and D3 afaik doesn’t apply to combi’s. Poor hot water is often due to a blockage of some sort, or even the diverter valve on that boiler.

I can’t see how a pump would fuse contacts as it’s the Tado and motorised valve that carry out the switching, not the pump.

No ideas why not Don't know, but it’s a leave in product anyway Factsheet

As above a rebadged/made by Drayton 2 channel programmer. Iflo are TP/City plumbing’s “own” label stuff.