Hi, I'm laying electric underfloor heating on a new concrete floor with terracotta tiles on top. We have minimal head height, so having to go for 6mm insulation board. I see the board is supposed to be bonded with tile adhesive to the concrete floor. We really need every millimetre we can...
Right for my (and anyone else in the same situation) reference, they are:
Part No: 247745
GC No: 343652
Washer 3/4 17x24x2mm
Part No: 248021
GC No: 343586
O-Ring Seal 17.86x2.62mm Primary HE
Part No: 248062
GC No: E66434
Diverter Valve Assy
Part No: 248018
GC No: E03268
O-Ring...
OK, thanks for the info. I notice that when replacing the diverter, Baxi don't supply the washers with the valve(!). Any ideas what size/type I need? I may be getting the valve via t'internet, otherwise I'd just look at the thing to work it out...
Hi all,
Model: Baxi 105e (not instant)
Symptom: when turning on hot water (CH turned off), I get hottish water, but also start to get CH.
I notice that both the microswitches come on. If I select just CH, just the top one comes on. I've searched the forums, but there doesn't seem to be any...
Received check valves from Bristan next day - all fitted and works perfectly. Credit to them for quick supply, and to swbjackson for confirming my suspicions, thanks!
Just thought I'd follow up on this. Looks like the shower unit should have check valves in the water supply elbows, but they seem to be missing. Although it took ages to get through to Bristan, once there they were very helpful, and they're posting out some for me. Thanks for the advice -...
Thanks - I suspected that may the case - just wanted to 'tap' (geddit?) the knowledge of you lot to see if there was anything I could do before Bristan open again on Tuesday.
Also - as per usual, after I posted I came across the following topic...
Boiler = baxi 105e gas combi
Shower unit = Bristan Cardinal thermostatic
'Good' mains water pressure (don't know what bar or anything like that I'm afraid).
I just installed a thermostatic shower, and now all our hot water (from all taps) comes out warm, not hot! If I isolate either hot or...
Whoot! Thanks Oilman and Wilhelm. I am currently standing by my nice quiet boiler. Two bearings, £14.26. Probably a little expensive (for bearings), but a damn site cheaper than a new motor, and definitely cheaper than a callout plus new motor. Of course I can't be certain it's sorted yet...
oilman, if you're there... I'm just trying to remove the motor, but the oil pump is on the back of it. I've undone the allen screws holding the pump onto the end of the motor, but should I remove the hard oil line from the pump end or the burner end? It seems pretty stuck fast on both ends and...
The reason I posted the noise was in case it *wasn't* the bearings - really just to clarify things. I'm getting the bearings today and will post the results. I might even post an MP3 of a boiler with newly fitted bearings so others can hear the difference... :-)
Thanks for your help,
Crispin
just thought I'd add this...
An MP3 of my boiler
This is the noise that my boiler makes. I managed to record it making the annoying noise to start with, but you can hear it fading. This isn't because I'm moving away from it, it just seems to do this sometimes. It really is intermittent...
From my experiences replacing bearings on motorbikes I think it'll probably be cheaper to buy a new motor than the extra cost of alcohol involved post bearing-change. :wink:
Isn't it a bit tricky to drift bearings out of motor housings? I suppose at least a boiler motor fits in the oven...