Recent content by dave1953

Possible condensate issues where the dot and dab has allowed cold bridging t the base of the boarding, producing condensate and eventually the black spot mould growth, not a good idea for the boards to be sat on tiles either, any condensate will be absorbed by the base of the gypsum boards. Damp...

I would take out a couple of external bricks beneath the Dpc to the left of your kitchen window and see whats going on, if it's saturated in the cavity you may well have a pipe work issue.

That bobbly stuff is your bitumous Dpc which, though a bit high, seems to be holding the damp beneath it. Could be you have an internal kitchen pipe issue which has breached the Dpm and saturated the brick work to that area, are your hot/cold pipes buried in the floor screed in that area?

Have a look at Storm Dry by www.safeguardeurope.com not cheap but it's breathable and having used it and seen the beading effect on brickwork when cured it works and dos'nt break down in the presence of lime.

For a cementitious tanking slurry to be effective the wall preparation prior to tanking is paramount, or it will fail. Never heard of a 50 year guarantee with a tanking system, never heard of TT55 either, The best tanking slurry I've know of is supplied by Safeguard europe which carries a BBA...

Basing my opinion on the area I live in so could be wrong with cavity assumption, properties here 1900 plus, 95% have cavities and 100 years plus of debris is becoming a problem especially if cavity insulation has been injected.

Agreed, meticulous preparation is paramount, Hydrostatic pressure is very hard to establish, give their technical department a call, they may be able to offer a suitable alternative product for you. Yes I have used Vandex BB75 for tanking and have not had a problem with it.

Have a look at www.safeguardeurope.com Vandex BB75, it does what it says.

You will probably find the cavity is full of debris and is providing a direct transfer of free waters from outer to inner leafs or through candle wick effect to debris within cavity. Install suitable double air bricks to provide ventilation within cavity and during installation clear cavities of...

Probably through and through vents to old larder or for internal ventilation.

Don't use Pva, Render mix is 3 to 1 sand /cement and use SBR, no water, two coats then skim finish. SBR will replace "waterproof" additive, key brickwork first and Dampen as you suggest before first coat render.

Agree'd peaps but if stevethejoiner is that unhappy with what's about to happen with the walls at least he can inform the owner then it's up to him to put the builder/plasterer right. Can't see what the big problem is with using traditional lime plaster, it's not that hard and it's easier to...

If it's listed give the local conservation officer a call, they'll tell you what can and cannot be done.

Agree with all the above however if the property has a condensation problem i.e high Relative Humidity then a damp meter will only pick up surface moisture on walls which is not a Rising Damp problem. The crack in the render should be opened to see whats going on, at worst Re-bar stitching of...

Personally I would do as has been said and reduce the garden levels to below the existing Damp Course level.To introduce air bricks will increase sub floor ventilation to prevent rot formation[unless it has allready formed] , in which case it will require treatment or replacement ,you don't say...