Recent content by dave41

Hi folks, any further thoughts on this please? If Junction A being compromised could be the cause of the smell I’ll try sealing it up today - what’s best for that job? I have an all purpose sealer but wonder if something different is better

Thanks Rob. I'm guessing to run a smoke test I'll need to call in a professional, as the videos I've just watched of smoke testing all require specialised bits of kit. I have access to a "party" smoke machine but I don't think I could send that down the drain properly. Re: junction A - if...

I just realised the utility room had a sink in it too, so there were a total of 5 appliance draining into that soil stack: shower, bathroom sink, toilet, washing machine, utility sink. There are only the three junctions in the stack so the only sense I can make of it is that the utility sink...

I'm not sure. Junction A is in line with where both the old toilet and the old washing machine were. So given I can't see any other junctions, my current assumption is that BOTH somehow fed into Junction A through the hole that now has been capped. Would that be possible or is there some other...

Thanks both, just removed all the tape and bags to check - there's plenty of soapy water in the trap from the washing machine. And the old sniff test says it all smells fine out that end too. It does seem like the smell is coming from around junction A, but I can't get very close to either of...

Hi again Chris! Thanks for your response, by checking the washing machine trap what exactly do I need to look at? On the toilet connector (which is the one I sent a gif of wiggling) there is a drain cap on (the black thing under the hand, right?) which has been sealed with extra sealant as our...

Hi everyone, We have an issue where the kitchen smells like bad drains as this is permeating the house. We recently extended the kitchen into the old bathroom utility room (in the process capping off old washing machine, toilet, shower, and sink) and this is when the issue started. The floor is...

Hi all, just wanted to say I got this all wired up with your help and seems to be working exactly as desired. Thanks again for all your help!

I did wonder about that - but because the system had already been set up with two zones and because I probably won’t go to all smart TRVs immediately, I thought I’d leave both zones in place. Are there any downsides to this?

Thanks a lot for your help!

@chris - I think I understand now, thanks. I think what I'd misunderstood is that the motorised valve is not just opening/closing, but also sending the demand signal to the boiler (I'd assumed this was done by the programmer...) What I now understand is: By linking the terminals in the...

Thanks Chris So: 1) put the HubR in place of the H37XL programmer (with the rewiring of the baseplate required). 2) link the terminals in both BDRs (I think I'd feel more confident doing that then opening up the wiring centre) and then the motorised valves will be permanently open. With...

Thanks Chris. Just to check understanding then - are these BDRs connected to the mechanical valves I can see, or to the boiler?

Hi Chris, thanks for your response. I can see this wiring diagram for the BDR91: so when you say the switching wires need to be joined, do you mean to link terminals B and C together on both BDRs?

Hi everyone I've read so many forum posts here but I can't seem to find an answer to my current conundrum... thanks in advance for any help you can offer! I'd like to install a Drayton Wiser 3 kit for the house. Current set up is 2 central heating zones (upstairs/downstairs) and hot water...