I suppose you are correct. I did, in fact, make up another draincock using a tapered-thread coupler and a plain draincock. But the amount of taper on the thread was surprisingly small...
30 turns of PTFE tape later (20 wasn't enough!) and the thing is installed nicely.
So I guess...
Ok, I admit I'm just assuming the female thread on the cylinder is parallel. I am therefore wanting a male tapered thread on the draincock.
The draincock I have is parallel-thread, and doesn't get any tighter as I screw it in, until its "shoulder" touches the boss on the tank. But, as far as...
Hi all,
My nice new Gledhill copper cylinder has a tapping for a drain cock. This tapping is 1/2" BSP female parallel threaded. I naively thought the drain cock I bought https://www.toolstation.com/made4trade-mt-cock-type-a/p83905 would come with a tapered thread, but no, it's parallel too...
I agree. I have a couple of Mira Platinums off a large shower pump. They are great (particularly compared to the Grohe Digital ones they replaced!) but if I was installing them from scratch I would go for the ones with inbuit pumps. I'd stick with Mira because I've been happy with them.
I live in a village, apparently surrounded by decaying water mains. We have "water cuts" several times a year while roads are dug up and mains are repaired. I know this because those of our neighbours who have converted to combi boilers or unvented cylinders post on the neighbourhood Facebook...
I have no idea what causes it. Mine's a sealed system, with JG pex barrier pipe. The fact that the "flakes" (actually, they're more like crushed seashells) are black and magnetic means they must be iron, which must come from the radiators. But why they happen at all, and particularly why they...
I'm another person with a Viessmann Vitodens 100 (system boiler, not combi) who suffers from black magnetic flakes.
The boiler was fitted at the same time as all new radiators, plastic pipes, plenty of inhibitor, and a filter. The system water runs clear.
The hoses were replaced the first...
This is a situation where plastic pipe would come into its own. A long length of it could be threaded through as many holes as necessary, to go all the way from where it starts to where it's needed with zero joins.
I bought an Ideal Standard bath about 10 years ago, which had the same problem with the tap holes. The fibreglass was much thicker on one side of the hole than the other, so there was no way that standard washers would have sealed.
A few minutes with a sanding disc on an angle grinder fixed...