Recent content by davy_owen_88

Yes, connect the earth conductors from the supply cables to the metal frontplate. The screws holding the frontplate to the backbox will provide an adequate connection to earth should any conductor become loose and make contact with the backbox/screws but not the frontplate.

So long as the backboxes have one fixed lug, you do not have to install the earth lead to the backbox. The fixed lug and screw do a good enough job on their own. I wouldn't think about wrapping bits of wire around screws as the connection isn't going to be good, and they could come loose later...

:roll: If you hadn't noticed, this is the electrics forum. Most people on here are electricians and as a result, won't be experts on water regs - regardless, I'll give your question a go :lol: If your neighbour has access to the stop cock then common sense should tell you that he could...

Why not just buy a lower wattage tubular heater? :roll: Get two if you want some extra heat during the day. Or use this: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/JVHRS.html

The only option is to use a deeper box if you have done all you can to make things neat already. Arranging the conductors prior to connection and making sure you do not have excess length within the box is vital when using shallow boxes as it reduces the risk of undue strain being placed on the...

Batteries for your camera and plenty of green & yellow earth sleeving... :wink: :lol:

300mm isn't going to be deep enough for a single rod - at that depth the ground is too susceptible to freezing/drying which will make it almost useless, under those conditions. An earthing grid/mesh will be more suitable for your needs, or multiple earth rods. Better yet, have you phoned your...

522.8.2 only applies to a conduit/ducting system. It basically means that you must construct the conduit/ducting system before pulling in any cables. It has nothing to do with non-conduit/ducting installations, such as t&e buried directly in plaster/behind plasterboard. And that isn't a new...

Not trying to be an ass here, but what the hell were they teaching you on the Part P course?! If you completed it within the last 3 months as you stated, they should have been teaching you the 17th edition and I would have thought the main changes between 16th and 17th would have been high up on...

It's something that anyone with a bit of expereince will do without thinking so its unlikely that they would have bothered mentioning how many clips they are going to use as most people don't care. :lol: If you are having a small secondary CU next to your existing consumer unit then a quick...

:wink: Just curious... Do you own a set of calibrated test meters? Do you know how to use them? Do you know how to interpret the results they give you? Did you intend on using this test equipment after carrying out the work? Did you factor the time it will take to perform all the...

I have to agree with Softus, 8 hours is not long enough for one person to do all the work quoted for properly. You may have 'cabled' houses in your past, but that doesn't mean anything in the UK. In England and Wales you must comply with Part P of the building regulations, which means you are...

What are you going to be doing with it? 3" ripping only? Deep (>6") resawing sometimes? Curves? As mentioned, for £2k you can get a very nice industrial quality saw but if you are only cutting small widths at 3" deep then you don't really need a 2 grand saw. If it is for your trade on the...

Code 2 if no RCD protection for the circuits within the bathroom, but if there is RCD protection plus main bonding connections it wouldn't even be mentioned because supp. bonding is not required.

Have you considered underfloor heating? http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BNLH10030.html I don't think you are going to find a tubular heater that small in diamter, most tend to be atleast 50mm. They also tend to get pretty hot 90-100 degrees so probably a bit hot for your needs without...