Earth spike
- Thread starter alexbetts
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How long is a piece of string?
Well you didn't exactly give me much information to go on did you?
Why are you installing an earth spike anyway?
What equipment do you have to test the spike with?
Why are you installing an earth spike anyway?
What equipment do you have to test the spike with?
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300mm isn't going to be deep enough for a single rod - at that depth the ground is too susceptible to freezing/drying which will make it almost useless, under those conditions.
An earthing grid/mesh will be more suitable for your needs, or multiple earth rods. Better yet, have you phoned your DNO and asked about the possibility of upgrading to TN-C-S (PME)?
An earthing grid/mesh will be more suitable for your needs, or multiple earth rods. Better yet, have you phoned your DNO and asked about the possibility of upgrading to TN-C-S (PME)?
You need to frive it in to the full extent leaving jsut enough to connect to.
Use a protective piece of metal and then hit it with a club hammer.
Ali
Use a protective piece of metal and then hit it with a club hammer.
Ali
Yeah but that still doesn't answer the question does it?
A standard 1200mm long rod may well not be long enough to provide a sufficiently good earth path, so banging it in and hoping for the best really isn't the way to do things is it?
A standard 1200mm long rod may well not be long enough to provide a sufficiently good earth path, so banging it in and hoping for the best really isn't the way to do things is it?
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You nasty men...you've scared him away now...
If I dare poke my nose in here ...
I've had to install four earth rods on my property. The land has a layer of limestone about 300mm below the surface, and underneath that is clay and stones.
I excavate the soil where I want to place the earth pit, then drill downwards with a long small diameter SDS bit. Then, I fit the earth clamp to the rod and whack the rod into the ground with a club hammer.
Using a 'protective piece of metal' will not stop the end of the rod mushrooming; fitting the earth clamp first means that if a burr does develop on the end, it doesn't matter.
Of course, as others have pointed out, the installation will have to be tested on completion.
I've had to install four earth rods on my property. The land has a layer of limestone about 300mm below the surface, and underneath that is clay and stones.
I excavate the soil where I want to place the earth pit, then drill downwards with a long small diameter SDS bit. Then, I fit the earth clamp to the rod and whack the rod into the ground with a club hammer.
Using a 'protective piece of metal' will not stop the end of the rod mushrooming; fitting the earth clamp first means that if a burr does develop on the end, it doesn't matter.
Of course, as others have pointed out, the installation will have to be tested on completion.
In my experience it is rare that one earth rod is enough and i always allow for two. If you buy the correct joining pieces and driving bolt you will not get a burred end thus enabling further rods to be installed should the subsequent tests reveal the need
dcw
dcw
I use my meaty SDS drill set to chisel mode.
In the chuck I fit an SDS to ½" square converter. Into the square converter I fit a largish hex socket.
Having started the rod straight I use the drill to drive the rest of the way.
I find the regular chisel action from the drill is ideal to drive the rod through almost anything without too much damage to the rod or my knuckles.
In the chuck I fit an SDS to ½" square converter. Into the square converter I fit a largish hex socket.
Having started the rod straight I use the drill to drive the rest of the way.
I find the regular chisel action from the drill is ideal to drive the rod through almost anything without too much damage to the rod or my knuckles.
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