Recent content by dawz84

From further reading, it would appear Ardex NA is some sort of super product that we bond with most things, including Bitumen. So I'm tempted to paint down some blackjack first. Even though I've been told I don't need it, I figure extra protection can't be a bad idea?

Update: for anyone who comes across this problem. I phoned Ardex directly to ask for technical help. They arranged for a floor specialist to call me back. He said the asphalt is temperature-sensitive and expands and contracts at a different rate than the concrete. He said any fresh concrete...

So, I have a secondary problem. I have tiles in my kitchen that are lifting in the same room as the leak. Since lifting the floor up due to this water leak I've come to realise that I think the problem is due to the channels that were cut into the floor for Plumbing and drains. The channel is...

No need to bother with expansion gaps or anything then? Just coat it with DPM Epoxy. Can I tile directly on that?

Asbestos tiles, Bloody hell, I hope not; I assumed it was some old-fashioned Lino. You can see when I had the floor done they primed them in some fashion and just tiled over them. That might explain why they did that; I pulled a few up, thinking they were lazy. I won't mess with them any more...

I have a 1950's house. I had a leak in my kitchen, where the mains water pipe comes up into the house before the stop tap. We had to bring up the floor and follow the mains pipe down through the concrete floor and find the clay/ceramic service pipe that houses the copper pipes that goes to the...

Next stage done, vermiculite board, plastered and mantel.

Sourced a piece of slate 20mm thick from a reclamation yard, £80. Was 130cm by 65cm. Next problem was how I was going to cut it. Looked up Dimond edged blades (£20-30) I could put in a angle grinder but didn't want to ruin the slate. Phoned round some kitchen places that wanted £25 per cut...

1. Well I'm no expert, but the HETA's Engineer said it was no problem when he inspected and told me what to do. 2. I actually had a structural engineer back in May. Kitchen & diner was knocked through. I had the fireplace opened up to have a Kitchen hob put inside it with a extractor system. I...

I misunderstood what you put originally and prepared an image. Since I went to the trouble of preparing it I'll share it anyway :LOL: The black arrows are every brick I had to chop on the left side. As you can see when it reached the corbelling every brick was tied into the wall. Wasn't the...

New issue, the floor inside the fireplace is lower than the main floor, which we had tiled with some luxury laminate, few months back. From the Deepest point to the edge of the level floor there's a difference of 1 Inch. I've manage to source one piece of slate which is well over the 12mm...

Here's a image to show you. On the right you can see 3 bricks floating from before I knocked them out, with all the loose bricks behind. On the left you can see the diagonal colour change where I broke them off. In fact every one was tied into the party wall on review. On the far left the dark...

As we expected the Corbelled bricks were tied into the back wall. It wasn't quick and a challenge to remove them. You have to snap them halfway into the wall and clean up the edge, I just used a DSD Drill which did the job. I Had to remove 3 or 4. A brick or 2 around would drop, most of the time...

Anyone know if you can get some sort of pre finished/paintable fire board? Something I can use to tidy up the brick?

I hope so too. :LOL: The bit on the left I was worried about, after I took out some of the lose bricks I realised that they had toothed in some bricks higher up to hold them. I rebuilt in some of the lose bricks and mortared it all up, figured it would sure it all up and take weight off the...