Recent content by DAZB

That is quite some movement you have there....I would get as much resin in if you can as it will be a stronger repair and then point up the face in mortar. Application with a gun will ensure it reaches as much as you can.

I am assuming you have insulation in the ceiling space and if you Search eBay for downlight hood and install them over the downlights it will help to help keep out the draughts.

Dependant on what your structural engineer specifies an option would be to fit a timber of 47 X 225 at right angles to the existing rafters, either sat into the outer walls if possible or on brackets or hangers and notched to sit in between them providing a fixing point for the ends of the new...

The choice is yours but if done correctly the water and the surface you coated with PVA should never meet each other.

Hi, on Point 1 it would be ok to scrape off any loose or flaking paint, give it a light rub down and then PVA the walls and it should then be good to tile directly onto them. 2) again you could PVA if you wish as it all helps it bond but you are able to tile straight onto the floor and get...

Thermalite blocks would be a good choice but I would consider rendering the outside face to avoid them "sucking" in rainwater.

It will certainly perform better than a timber shed but you will need to make sure you have some form of insulation and heating and also some ventilation to create a better environment for your tools.

I am with you on the solid fix into studwork or a backing board behind the plasterboard approach but there are some very good cavity fixings around today and these claim to be VERY strong ...

You could simply use the exiting batten or, as you mention yourself, fit a new batten in front of the existing one if you need a wider fixing point. If you look closely at the existing timber batten you may be able to see the fixings even if they have been filled and painted so it's worth a...

Fixing them down with screws is much better to cure the squeaking but check also that the underside of the floorboards is not in contact with any pipes.

You could probably use the traditional method of using lead plugs and then use a lead sealant as it will give a bit of flexibility rather than mortar which could crack due to the weather etc... An alternative is these ...

According to the Span Tables you are within the limits for load bearing with just what you have now, i.e. single 6 X 2 joists. Have a browse at the link : http://nhbccampaigns.co.uk/landingpages/techzone/previous_versions/2010/Part6/section4/appendix.htm Using C16 47mm X 147mm joists it shows...

The joist size for a span as short as that would be fine in my opinion but you could also fit noggins of 6 X 2 mid section if there are none. Top it with an 18mm Marine ply and also consider doubling up with a row of noggins beneath the ply deck around any perimeter if you have one so you can...

Hi, you could use an angle grinder or Stihl saw etc to cut out just the correct size or to create far less dust you could stitch drill the blocks by drilling lots of holes all the way around the perimeter you want to remove and then knock out the blocks. The problem you then have is that the...

Welcome in Stephen, I will assume you mean the inner leaf of blockwork ? If so you would need to support it just the same way as the outer leaf and another concrete lintel would pick up the inner leaf. You could use one piece of stone or concrete if it were wide enough to cover both skins but...