Recent content by DAZB

Without seeing it this is just a suggestion but you could cut it off lower down and use a Durgo valve which lets it vent but stops odours escaping. Cutting the cast iron is the difficult bit but you could possibly take it down to the next joint and fit the Durgo into that. A photo would help you...

I bought a pack of 50 for £20 on ebay, all the same size but it is generally the size i use most of and have been doing a lot of work that needed them with customers jobs, my own rentals and also my own house renovation and i am about half way through the pack now after buying them in November...

For occasional use i would say just go on ebay and buy the 50 for 20 quid set or even 20 for 7 quid odd. If you are only cutting timber they would do you a couple of years with occasional use and B & Q, Screwfix, Toolstation etc are all overpriced on these items.

It all depends who fit them and what they chose to use, you may have some in or you may not but they are easy to cut to width to suit the frame channel.

Here you go... https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2332490.m570.l1313&_nkw=bridging+packers+windows&_sacat=0

Your problem would be the fixing method as you would need a structure to fix the t & g to and nailing or screwing through the roof covering may give you problems. It is perfectly possible but just bear in mind you have to keep the waterproofing intact and that t & g laid on a pitch roof exposed...

I was under the impression it was similar to a gas meter unit door and was just a simple lever type, a photo would clear it up a bit for us all.

You could try a long flat screwdriver in there to see if it will rotate or shape a length of timber to match the opening and see if that works. You could even try undoing the bolts that hold the lock in place. They may just spin but worth a go.

It's all about control of the water and i never use more than a trickle. The electrics and motor are at the back of the machine and unless you are reckless with the hosepipe it works fine. I would add that i personally am happy to do it that way but if you have any doubts then think carefully...

Foam should do the job and i would move the wires out of harms way first and make the first burst of foam a good one so it gets to the rear wall and then back off a little to cover the rest but don't overload it too much as the weight could drag it in. It won't look pretty but it doesn't have to...

I have the same saw and all i do is trickle a hose pipe onto the blade while cutting. Does the same job and just a slow trickle is all it needs in most cases.

ok.... you may just need to drill a hole in the guard to fit this but easily done. Others are available if not the best for you...

This any good ? ...... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Evolution-Power-Tools-012-0010-Cutter/dp/B08PDLLVPV?th=1

Butt them up and the screws will pull into the studs and bead enough to be able to fill over easily. Take it steady and don't overtighten, just enough to get them flush is good.

There is no particular way and just fit the boards onto the studwork to form the corner and the angle bead can either be nailed or screwed on top.