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It's a scruffy looking job at best with missing nails (especially up the side and base of the timbers), nails not hit fully home, split laths, ragged lath ends, etc... have you paid them in full ?

May be worth taking a bolster chisel to one if you can as the mortar may well come off easier than you think. Failing that, then yes, it is possible to bed them as they are found but would be much more work getting them set and to a level, etc...

What you have shown there is a lap joint but very much the way to tackle this one. You still actually have around half of the timber depth at the base so using modern foaming glues and good screws you could cut out the rot with a multitool type weapon and patch in a new piece of timber and if...

I would say leave it on other than a light sanding and overboard it as it will make no difference to the finish on the new boards.

This version accomodates 50mm to 90mm of space so may be enough for the depth you need.... pricey but other options are out there...

Best thing to do would be just try it as I cannot see a few metres making any noticably difference to the use.

The upper short diagonal valley is the main culprit i'd say as the water will be running at speed down from the higher pitch and running under the tiles as there is no pointing in the valley. The vertical section of lead up the main roof should also be under the next tile above and not stop mid...

Found this one for you in Beech but no sign of the steel equivalent.... https://wjskitchenwarehouse.co.uk/beech-dovetail-bar-handle.html

Saw this at the rugby club recently, very nice motor stuck to the back of the plate too.

They look very similar to these : https://ammaaristones.co.uk/product/bisque-red-65mm-bricks/

Nice handles and fitted to the very best cabinets and furniture in the 1800's / early 1900's and the piece you have was probably quite a sum of money back then. Anyway I found some on here for you... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355576942674

It is a Moorhen chick as it has a red beak, I always distinguish them from a Coot as their is an "R" in red and Moorhen but no "R" in Coot.

These are a good alternative as they extend to the space available and tighten up with a quick twist : https://www.dunelm.com/product/bathroom-basics-extendable-4-tier-corner-caddy-1000030058?defaultSkuId=30110114&branchCode=0480&gStoreCode=480

You need a firm surface so scrape off anything that is loose or flaking with a scraper and wire brush and give it a coat of PVA and then you can give it a coat of Bonding to level it up ready for the backer boards.

If it was built in the 80's you should be able to go on your local council Planning Dept web site and search for the address which may give you the planning application details with the drawings etc. While that may not give you full structural details it will give you the applicants name and...

It's a relatively simple "old sheets off, new sheets on" kind of job but definately use new fixings. Screwfix do these and Wickes also stock similar... https://www.screwfix.com/p/corrapol-polycarbonate-fixings-clear-60mm-x-20mm-50-pack/871fh

If you have ever noticed when digging the garden or clearing leaves etc there is quite often a Robin not far away and they have learnt that humans are quite often a source of food so they loiter nearby and the minute you stop and sit still a few metres away they often dive in and pick out...

I would say you are safe with those unless you have underfloor heating or similar temperature variations that may affect the floor but it is unlikely they will suffer in normal conditions.

It looks like incoming cable TV but a photo of the cable end in the house and info of where it goes outside will help, such as does it go underground or go up the wall to something etc...?

You need to unscrew the screw and then push the sleeve through from above or back up from below to remove it from the pan. If the screw does not undo then you may have to prise it up but take care as you don't want to damage the loo so protect it if you are using anything that may mark it.