Recent content by DenzB

A few points. Loft conversions require Building Regulation Approval. It would be best to appoint a local architect or surveyor to draw up some plans for you. This will give you all the answers you need regarding constuction as the insulation, floor joists, staircase and other details have to be...

Because of this and your previous post re: maximum permitted glazing area, I assume this job is being done under Building Notice rather than Full Plans. This perfectly illustrates the inherent problem with this method of approval. Fine if all parties (client, builder and local authority) have a...

These are timber to timber hangers. They are not designed to be used for any other purpose. You need masonry hangers, but you probably already know this.

I'd recommend building the wall in bays. Say 5 bays of approx 5m each. By doing this you can introduce piers and also construction/expansion joints. Turn the blocks 90 degrees at the end of each bay to create a 215 x 440mm pier. Add one expansion joint and job done.

You need a Party Wall Agreement. See the following link: http://www.opsi.gov.uk/ACTS/acts1996/1996040.htm This will give you a legally binding document and protects against any dispute with future neighbours.

The Building Regs require vents at eaves level giving the equivalent of 10mm continuous ventilation, unless you have sloping ceiling where 25mm is required.

Padstones may not be necessary if the walls are brickwork like you say. Any loading from a floor alone (and a small amount of brickwork) is likely to be quite modest, and given it's only a 3 metre span the point loads of the bearings should not be excessive. Perhaps you could have a longer...

Some points to note: 1. Electric systems are perfectly safe if installed properly. 2. A wet system is more efficient/cheaper to run than electric. 3. Underfloor heating is the most effective method of space heating. 4. You would have to be particularly dumb to put carpet over a heated floor...

If the blocks are retaining soil then they need to be suitable for use below ground. Check the manufcturers website for details. I'd recommend dense blocks as they are more robust and better suited to take external render.

It's not just the sound insulation you should be concerned about. The party wall should be fire stopped where it joins the external wall (to prevent fire spreading between buildings). You need to close the cavity with a fire resistant material. Try Rockwool, this also has sound reduction properties.

If you've got attic trusses as opposed to regular fink trusses then structurally it would be possible to convert the loft. Dormer windows may not be possible as this would involve cutting through the trusses, undermining the strength and stability (not advisable!), roof lights may be the only...

Edge insulation is as important as floor insulation elsewhere. This prevents a cold bridge at the most vulnerable point. If you omit edge insulation you undermine the performance of the floor insulation (whether under or over the slab). Don't skimp on this, the cost is minimal compared to the...

High thermal mass (using the concrete slab as a heat sink) prevents overheating in summer and is more responsive to ambient conditions. Don't forget the floor slab is not being heated in isolation, the walls will also be charged during the heating period. Also the heat will not be 'lost'...

Insulation under the slab is preferable because the concrete will increase the thermal mass of the building, making for a more controllable heating/cooling cycle.

I had a situation like this where building close to a tree. The only solution was mini-pile foundations (100mm dia piles driven into the ground). It's not cheap though, but you have compare that against the cost of digging 2m foundations with associated precautions such as trench shoring and the...