Recent content by dishman

Anyone else find those modern dipsitcks (orange plastic end) more difficult to read than the old simple metal ones. They seem to collect oil really easily when pulling them out, even after wiping, so I can never see a clear defined level line.

This approach is generally a bad idea. It really is pointless changing random sensors unless you know which is faulty, or if it is faulty. You could actually make diagnosis more tricky as you might make something worse or replace a good quality OEM sensor with a cheaply made third party...

Do you mean it is an hour faster at installing vs the Mega? Are there any features that are generally desirable? My logical brain says that with direct unvented it's purely insulation and quality of materials, kwh rating of the immersions and everything else is marketing bells and whistles...

What is the difference between something like this: https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/uk-cylinders-eilite-cyl-direct-unvented-cylinder-150ltr/?srsltid=AfmBOooZJ9hBRHBFX44peDyqj-R1XWekQmfFOu6ZAykcj5Ugm9SIo_85EtI and this...

It's just the nature of the design. There will always be backing up of waste water so the fatty deposits will naturally get backwashed there. Cleaning your filters after every use might help slow it collecting there, and maybe doing a dishwasher cleaner every few months. But all waste water...

Common issue on most dishwasher distributor matrix. I do mine every few years (just did it last week in fact). As mine is an older bosh dishwasher the distributor is much bigger, but the principal is the same. 1) The whole assembly should pull up and out. It looks like the top corner is held...

Yeh, this was not something I was planning to do myself, just to make that clear. I was mainly sounding out trusted brands or specific features that might be desirable in a modern tank. All those things will be checked by the installer I am sure. At the very least I know what they should be...

Looking at replacing a fortic cylinder in the near future. It's way past it's prime and hot water pressure is woeful. I will be looking to replace it with direct (dual immersion) unvented cylinder to run on an E7 system. I've considered other options but I think that is the best one. It's a...

Yes there will be, I have not tried to see where they are. They probably are part of the existing light fitting, I don't know how dim or bright they are until I use the test switch.

There is a room in a multi occupancy office building. It is often used by different groups for meeting, events etc. One such event may require the lights to be turned off, just for a short time. However...for some reason (compliance? energy savings?) all the lights in the room are PIR...

I would look at the following: 1) What type of bulbs do the fogs use? 2) Were the bulbs always replaced with the correct type? (if originally halogens, they should only be replaced with the exact same halogen type) 2a) If they were not replaced with the correct type and for example "upgraded"...

Now look at the live data and see if you can see any odd readings off the bat. e.g check temp readings when the car is cold, (things that basically stand out) Unless anything stands out as really odd, you will probably then need to compare all the readings that scanner can see with established...

Bingo! I actually worked it out myself last night as I was going through possibilities. Looks like the 800mA fuse popped at some point without me realising.

Strange, I can't think what I could have got wrong. 1) Multimeter in A DC or mA DC 2) probe in the 10A socket or mA socket. 3) Disconnected negative terminal. 4) Connect one probe to the battery terminal and the other to the cable end. Just to clarify, there is no battery issue now, or any...

Just curious what kind of idle power draw you would expect on a car of this era (MK1 ford KA). I was checking a potential battery issue (now resolved) and as a check for parasitic draw I measured the current with my multimeter in series across the negative terminal of the battery and...