Recent content by DiyNutJob

With lifetime no leaks largely in the bag, now money is no object. I will be saving so much in future years, frankly I think it should be illegal. So, here's the final spend to complete my tool set. To mount a tyre, a bare minimum of 3 pry bars are needed. I have 2 long ones for prying. This...

No. I am always here having you to talk to.

The job is now complete. What remains is a time test. Both fronts have been equalized to 2.45 bar. Will see what happens at 2 week, 1 month, and 2 month intervals. Reg1 wheel has shop beads and DIY valve. Reg2 has DIY beads and valve. A solution for a rim protector has been found, and that is...

The bead breaker being fairly narrow, breaking the bead wasn't completely straightforward, but good enough. On the first clamp, the bead's mating surface was flipped into the open and the clamping began to slip. The next attempt was to the left of the starting position. Same thing happened. The...

A combination of playing the wheel like a basket ball, and plenty of tyre paste/soap on the bead seat and reachable tyre rubber allowed me to seat the front bead on the first attempt. The reason it worked was that the bouncing produced internal air and mechanical shock waves that pushed+flexed...

Following inspection, I only found one bad spot on the tyre bead seat. This was about 1/4 wheel away from the marked leak location. The loose paint and aluminium corrosion powder were scraped away using a wood chisel. The debris was prevented from going into the wheel or onto the bead, and...

The chinese are just copying the capitalist scumbags. The design and spec would have been defined by the americans. The good old days of quality china products at reasonable prices, of which I have plenty, are coming to an end.

I am dissatisfied with the bought rim protector. Therefore I would not recommend them. Nevertheless they are probably better than nothing. They break in 1 use and are designed for profit exploitation, typical of american designs. Better rubbers exist, such as those used on tyres and suspension...

After identifying and marking the front leak on the reg2 wheel, I decided to bust the myth on soapy water. An extra bubble popping up every few minutes would be impossible to distinguish from the others. For slow leaks, use bubble free plain water or go home. I struggled half a day without...

That's impossible. The power needed to lift that bar to the vertical position would break the bar, tyre, or wheel. The reason the bar was pre-placed is because inserting it later would mess up the wheel finish.

Currently I don't have balancing ability. I believe shops can do just the balancing for you. I can't fix it for you, but I am showing you the way. I will fix my own leak around the rim shortly on my regular wheel.

Remounting the tyre was easier having gained experience once before. The earlier mentioned low force wedge and pry bar technique worked for 70% of the front bead. Then full force conventional prying had to be used to complete the job. A ratchet strap was perfect for locking down the bead to...

I suggest put nut against wall and bang with head. It will crack every time given the available density. Do you need a translation from physics to english? You don't have experience of dealing with the tyre by hand. I don't understand why you bother with this thread. The junk you picked up from...

A couple of low force techniques have been developed to allow dismounting of the tyre without damaging the paint. For the front bead, we start with the left pry bar levering the bead up. When space is opened up on the right, the hook end of the right pry bar is inserted. The right pry bar then...

We are where we are because went to shop. Clown!