Recent content by Draughtsman

Needs replacing. Should I strip/clean the trap? Thank you.

Replaced the AAP (boiler drain cock initially a bit reluctant) - presumably the little plastic screw cap on top is not supposed to be screwed down tight? Thank you.

I used this particular (450x450) untextured matt because it has the same finish on the sides as the top. I'm trying to source similar. Any suggestions would be appreciated inc. the correct search term for this type. Maybe some sort of resin composite? Thank you.

Obvs it's sat on carcass, which isn't waterproof so I'd like a worktop added to finish it. A waterproof seal between stainless and any additional worktop is a must. I thought conventional worktop or even a 600x600 composite tile on a ply base, if I can get one that size (not sure ceramic or...

Pressurised Glow Worm. The amount of water released dropped the Bar down to zero so I restored the pressure to come away from it and have a think. There's laminated click wood down so I'd like to avoid a deluge.

The flow does increase with tapping and opening/closing the drain-off. I could crack a lockshield or trv connector nut or maybe completely unscrew the drain-off, but I think the lockshield or trv aren't closing off supply as the air bleed is still releasing water instead of drawing air in.

Replacing the rad so I'd like to drain this down 1st, but having fully undone the sq release nut on the drain-off spiggot it just drips. If I open the air bleed valve on the top I get water out of the air bleed, but still virtually none out of the bottom drain-off spiggot.. Thank you. Dain

Do 5"x1" door frames from Travis etc shrink much after fitting? How much would they lose from o/a width? Can you buy any that are so dry that they won't? Tnx all Dain

The ply is 3mm generally undersize all round as the planed Shaker bats provide the outer edges.

1/2" tool clips from crewfix to take 12mm hardwood dowell from Travis. Pilot hole for dowel set 13mm back. I had to bend the clip openings to put a locating lead on them, seems to work. I only need the dowel vert or horiz measurement right relative to the shaker planed moulding on the panel...

Are there any industrial vinyl covered plys available? Like they use for the tops of washing machines? With push fit corners/edging - aluminium flight case style?

Obvs I'll be securing the electrics 1st. I don't really like permanent boxing. Generally, I like access available without the wrecking bar. I secure/mount floor any floor battens on plastic packers, to keep them up from the moisture. Any pointers? Thank you.

Rattled out mortar - mastic grout batten, repair plated shiplaps together (after scribing/planing shiplap downstands) - screwed scrap board to skirting front to brace straight, rolled out stainless builders band - Gorilla glued it 2mm proud of top of skirting (LOTS of pegs), trimmed one leg off...

Lime distemper. I think there's iron content in the stone, the rust stains dry out to fine powder and brush off easily with a small wire brush. There's advice to soften distemper by painting with wallpaper paste and leaving the paint to soak up the moisture, then washing it all off together...

The stone was repurposed from an earlier building. Paint is sort of creamy/chalky. Washing it off using water immediately produces a virulent rust coloured stain. Any ideas?