Do 5"x1" door frames from Travis etc shrink much after fitting? How much would they lose from o/a width?
Can you buy any that are so dry that they won't?
Tnx all
Dain
1/2" tool clips from crewfix to take 12mm hardwood dowell from Travis. Pilot hole for dowel set 13mm back. I had to bend the clip openings to put a locating lead on them, seems to work.
I only need the dowel vert or horiz measurement right relative to the shaker planed moulding on the panel...
Are there any industrial vinyl covered plys available? Like they use for the tops of washing machines? With push fit corners/edging - aluminium flight case style?
Obvs I'll be securing the electrics 1st.
I don't really like permanent boxing. Generally, I like access available without the wrecking bar.
I secure/mount floor any floor battens on plastic packers, to keep them up from the moisture.
Any pointers?
Thank you.
Rattled out mortar - mastic grout batten, repair plated shiplaps together (after scribing/planing shiplap downstands) - screwed scrap board to skirting front to brace straight, rolled out stainless builders band - Gorilla glued it 2mm proud of top of skirting (LOTS of pegs), trimmed one leg off...
Lime distemper. I think there's iron content in the stone, the rust stains dry out to fine powder and brush off easily with a small wire brush.
There's advice to soften distemper by painting with wallpaper paste and leaving the paint to soak up the moisture, then washing it all off together...
The stone was repurposed from an earlier building.
Paint is sort of creamy/chalky. Washing it off using water immediately produces a virulent rust coloured stain. Any ideas?
The stonework was reclaimed/repurposed from a much earlier building. Where there is paint it's chalky creamy and turns rust red if I try to wash it off with water. Will paintstripper gel take it off and wash down without permanently staining the stonework? Generally, I'd like to clean the stone...
As a top rail for box skirting, there's a 44x21 sat on the joists for the skirting btm? I was going to set the top rail, then push some plasterboard adhesive down behind ir.
I'd gun some mastic grout down behind the top rail but it stinks so much, I don't know that the smell would go away...
1900x1700 area. Probably a wet room with adjacent privy before wall came down to accommodate bath (which was below central heating boiler..). Refit inc. getting it back to regs. Also, washing machine now downstairs in bathroom.
Screed highest is where the separating wall was.
Does...
I put foam cavity closers in the reveal before the render/skim. Fixed the closers with a bit of expanding foam all the way up each side, but not an excessive amount.
It's the reveal skim that's showing spots of mould all the way up each side of the door.
A bedroom. Maybe I need to leave the...
Moisture is getting across the void to the inner leaf, and the emulsioned skim is moulding slightly adjacent the door frame so I need some sort of vertical make-up trim externally to cover the door frame/add-on join?
Is it better to recess the external render up the side of the door frame a...
Ply feet were 120x100, so a small gravity fitted/glued CLS block could go on each foot adjacent to CLS joists. Screws went into all CLS blocks only once glue was set. Interim CLS blocks added.